NWF Auction Dinner: Generous and Gallant

At The White Elephant

One of the premiere events at the Nantucket Wine Festival every year is the Saturday evening Wine Auction Dinner.  This year was no exception, as the tables were filled with generous bidders, and the unique lots garnered plenty of attention.  Not only was it a fun affair at the luxurious host hotel The White Elephant, but an auction with a cause.  The annual dinner is one example of NWF’s recurring support of Nantucket island:  all the proceeds of the auction go directly to the benefit of the Nantucket Historial Association.  “One-hundred percent of tonight’s proceeds go in support of NHA’s educational programs, and we are extremely grateful to Denis and NWF for their continuing generosity,” said Janet Sherlund (President, NHA Board of Trustees) to start the evening.  She continued, “Thanks to the Wine Festival, we’ve been able to offer plenty of new and exciting programs for children and their families over the years, and everyone is grateful.”  The auction dinner raised over $81,000 for the NHA and their programs on Nantucket.

The entire evening was filled with a generous spirit, not only due to the auction, but also because of the people in the room.

Manuel Louzada, Numanthia (r)

The well-appointed crowd included Cyril Brun, Winemaker of Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, and Manuel Louzada, Director and Winemaker of Bodega Numanthia in Spain.  They shared a center table with Denis Toner, President and Founder of the Nantucket Wine Festival, and they also donated many bottles of their luscious wines to the delight of the dinner patrons.

Laurent Drouhin, Denis Toner

Also in attendance was the 2012 NWF Luminary of the Year, Laurent Drouhin of Maison Joseph Drouhin in Burgundy, France, who was recognized as the award recipient.  Laurent lamented, “Wine is about friendship, and I have made a lot of friends on Nantucket.  I hope to be here for years to come.  Keep up the good work on your side, and we’ll try to do the same from ours.  On behalf of my family, thank you for this wonderful honor.  It goes directly to my heart.”  There was no doubt he spoke with deep sincerity, as Laurent is a thoughtful man, and takes pride in representing his family name.  He explained further, “It all started nine years ago, when I met Denis, and it keeps on going today.  I am grateful.  It brings a tear to my eye.”

Laurent Drouhin, 2012 Luminary of Year

Denis Toner

Denis too shared in the glow of such a friendship born of the world of wine, adding “To think in all my life I’d have such an experience as this, it’s unimaginable.  I feel truly lucky to be in the position to know a gracious man like Laurent Drouhin, and to have the chance to recognize him here tonight… it’s the culmination of a lot of dreams come true for me.  I value our friendship, and respect what he has done.”  Denis next suggested, with ever a flair for the moment, “Now let’s get the bidding going!”

And so they did.  Master auctioneer Jamie Ritchie (CEO and President, Sotheby’s Wine, Americas and Asia), took the podium and engaged the room, with his usual aplomb.

Jamie Ritchie, Denis Toner

Staying in the Thomas Macy House during his visit, Mr. Ritchie himself vouched for the quality of Lot 3 (dinner and entertainment for 8 people at Thomas Macy House).

Lot 12

As dinner was served, and lots were sold, the room rallied to the offering of Lot 12 (Six Days in Burgundy, guided by none other than Denis Toner himself, a sometimes local resident of Beaune, France).  The lot sold twice, and everyone applauded with a certain amount of envy for the winners.

In the end, the winner is Nantucket.  While the evening concluded with coffees and goat cheese cheesecakes, the support for the NHA’s programs lasts long into the year, and the friendships in the room endure the ages of time.

It was a generous and gallant evening, and everyone was filled with the spirit of the night.

NHA Mission Statement:  The Nantucket Historical Association preserves and interprets the history of Nantucket Island and fosters appreciation of its historical significance.

For more about the NHA, visit http://www.nha.org or stop by one of the many wonderful NHA properties on the island.

The great kitchen staff

Dinner Menu (prepared by Bernard Guillas, Executive Chef, The Marine Room and Frederick Bisaillon, Executive Chef, Brant Point Grill):

Wines

Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, presented by Cyril Brun

Numanthia, presented by Manuel Louzada

Maison Joseph Drouhin, presented by 2012 NWF Luminary Laurent Drouhin

Hors d’Oeuvres

Fleur de Sel Thyme Avocado Fritter, Ancho Chile Dip

Hibiscus Pomegranate Cured Ahi Tuna Lollipop, Lemongrass Macadamia Cilantro Sauce

Maine Lobster Bisque Shooters, Yuzu Cream, Fennel Pollen Spices

Wild Mushroom Torte, Serrano Ham, Truffle Foam

Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne

Amuse Bouche

Spring Pea Shooter

Spring Pea Shooter

Roasted Beach Mushroom Salad

Orange Basil Gremolata

First Course

888 Staved and Torched New England Mackerel

Chardonnay Salt/Chervil Salad/Sea Urchin Choron

Maison Joseph Drouhin 2008 Vaudon Chablis Premier Cru

Entrée

Pastrami Grilled  Prime Short Rib of Beef

Mustard Farro/Morel/Confit Leek/Natural Jus

Numanthia Numanthia

Dessert

Goat Cheese Cheesecake, Black Pepper/Rhubarb Compote

Clicquot Demi Sec

Citizens of Burgundy, Unite!

With good fortune, great weather and a lot of Burgundy knowledge in the room, the 2012 version of the Burgundy Roundtable held court at the bucolic Nantucket Golf Club during this year’s Nantucket Wine Festival.  What began years ago as a good idea has blossomed into one of NWF’s premiere not-to-be-missed affairs year after year.  Familiar faces filled the crowd, and some new ones participated at the table of Burgundy experts as well.

Anthony Hanson

Anthony Hanson, British Master of Wine, author, Christie’s wine consultant, and all around bon vivant, led the proceedings.  A lively panel of extremely accomplished members of the Burgundy wine elite were on hand, sharing their quips and quaffs during a delightful lunch.

Michel Anglada (Anglada-Deleger) graciously pronounced, “This is our 10th year coming here… we are happy to be citizens of Nantucket!”

Michel Anglada

And most welcome indeed, as Burgundians and Nantucketers do share a kinship, formalized by the Jumelage (“twin cities”), but commonly based on two communities with avid devotees, wise wine consumers, and a love of gastronomy.

Appreciation ruled the day.  Winemaker Alex Gambal (from both Nantucket and Burgundy) spoke of the Englishman Hanson, and said:

Alex Gambal, Laurent Drouhin, Pierre Rovani, Anthony Hanson

“Anthony has always shown an appreciation for Burgundy wines, along with a great expertise in the matter.  He knows how very hard it is to make wines, and how hard we work at it, year after year.  Knowing there’s an appreciation for the final result, in all its forms, is not lost on us.  He’s right, there are no bad wines.”

But there are vast differences in them, and in Burgundy just a few feet may mean Villages or Grand Cru on this side of the street, and Premiere Cru on the other.  The first pours on the tables today illustrated the point.  All the wines were beautiful in their own capacity, each with a distinct personality.  The wines included Michel Anglada’s 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet (Morgeot, Bruno Colin 1er Cru), Laurent Drouhin’s 2008 Chassagne-Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche (Joseph Drouhin 1er Cru), Alex Gambal’s 2009 Puligny-Montrachet, Pierre Rovani’s 2009 Beaune-Greves (Remoissenet 1er Cru), and Philippe Senard’s 2009 Corton, Clos de Meix (Domaine Comte Senard Grand Cru).

Burgundy

Gambal spoke of his Puligny-Montrachet, saying, “You can taste the berries… and the 20% new oak.  It was a lush year in 2009, and these are 50-year-old vines.  Also our wines are certifiable organic now, we’ll be bio-dynamique across the board by the end of this year.”

Laurent Drouhin noted of his offering (Chassagne-Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche), “We produce wine in the vineyard, much more so than in the winery.  There’s a purity and precision to the 2008’s:  here you have the saltiness, the straw on the nose, some apricot and the acidity at the finish.  We let the wines speak for themselves.”

Drouhin 2008 Chassagne-Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche, 1er Cru

Drouhin paused, and then carried on, “This wine is more than ‘Chardonnay‘ – this is what wine can be.”  He seemed to enter a dream state as he waxed poetic, enjoying the beauty of the wine, momentarily transformed by the experience of sharing it with others.

Pierre Rovani (Remoissenet Pere et Fils) gave hints as to why each vintage, and each appellation, can be so different.  He explained his winemaking philosophy.  “We believe in ‘natural rules’.  That is, it’s up to nature to lead, we just have to get out of the way.  We treat the vineyard with respect, and we accept nature’s curveballs.  We only harvest when the grapes are ripe, and trust the terroir such that the wines will achieve their natural balance.”

Pierre Rovani, Philippe Senard

Rovani continued, “I believe there are two purposes to wine.  First, wine must give you pleasure.  Is it good to drink now?  Then it is good.  Second, wine must go with food.  Food unleashes tightly wound wines, and allows you to appreciate their natural salinity.”

Alex Gambal offered his take, “One sign of a great wine is length.  Unlike the American tendency, bigger is not better.  Concentration is better, and that to me means length.  The flavor of it gets branded in your brain, and joins your sensory memory.  In the way that you don’t soon forget great art that you see, you will also find yourself recalling great wines.”

Alex Gambal, Anthony Hanson, Pierre Rovani, Laurent Drouhin

The lunch continued this way, from wine to wine, and course to course.  The best parts of the Burgundy Roundtable are the kernels of knowledge that inevitably come out, the little gems that only these experts, these titans of their trade, could offer.  It really is astounding to sit with such a group, if Burgundy is your cup of tea.  Anthony Hanson kept the conversation moving, with a subtle and sublime understanding of the wines, and winemakers, that revealed his own mastery.

Anthony Hanson (L), Philippe Senard (pouring)

Philippe Senard served up the next kernel, “The best wine is the one you want to drink.”  He left it at that, as only a man of confidence could say.  He knows the best wines will be appreciated, and more people will find Burgundy as they open more bottles.  When asked by someone in the audience “how much wine do you produce each vintage,” Philippe with perfect timing replied, “Not enough!”.  C’est vrai.  He then revised his answer to “a lot of good wines,” but his first response betrayed his heart.  If only they all could make more, there would be many happy people in the world (particularly in today’s devoted crowd).

Pierre Rovani spoke of his strict sorting policy (he turns off the conveyor when he has to take a phone call, and he is at every sorting table of the harvest).  He said, “the first most important thing we do is the harvest; the second is the sorting.  Only the best grapes will survive.  As does everyone else here, we hand-sort.  Then we put those that make it through into the barrels, and let nature and tradition take over.  We just put it in the cellar.”

Michel Anglada (L), Alex Gambal, Anthony Hanson (2 from R), Pierre Rovani

The conversation wound on, and turned to the 2009 Burgundy vintage.  Laurent said, “2009 reminds me of the greatest vintages of Burgundy reds on record.  It just never closed down, it is always showing great, never a down moment for the 2009 reds.”  Pierre concurred, “2009 will blow your mind on down the road.  Put it in your cellar.”  Alex Gambal chimed in with, “Once or twice in a career you will see grapes that beautiful.  There was a wonderful flowering period.  It was all ripeness throughout in 2009, and perfect even ripeness leads to perfect balance in the wines.”  Laurent added a footnote, “It was the good producers who did a fabulous job in 2009 in Burgundy.” That was a reminder that not all 2009 reds are equal, and the best producers will make the best wines.  It was a year to appreciate, and placed punctuation on just who sat in the room.  The best were there with humility, skill, laughter and some really great wines with generations of tradition behind them.

Philippe Senard added his two cents on 2009, “We are in Corton, and have been in the family vineyard for seven generations.  Power is the main characteristic.”  Philippe echoed earlier comments that the best producers will make the best wines, and sometimes nature just takes over in spite of your intentions:  “In 2009 it was a question of vintage, in 2010 it was a question of terroir.”  He also wryly said in perfect English, “I have been listening to all of the English speakers today, and I am dreaming we will have the same tasting and lunch and people again… in Beaune!  It will be in French there, our revenge.  You are all invited.”  C’est la vie.

Denis Toner (L), Alex Gambal

The last kernel of knowledge poured eloquently forth from Alex Gambal, as the afternoon concluded.  “You can’t make this wine anywhere else in the world.  It’s Burgundy, and it comes from a little 35 mile stretch of limestone along the Cote de Beaune.  This is just 1% of all of French wine produced in a year.  And it is unique in the world.  It has its own personality.”  In reference to his Clos Vougeot (Alex Gambal Grand Cru, 2007), Alex said, “This is not ‘Pinot Noir‘.  This is a taste that can only come from this little patch of dirt in this one single place.  It is not a consumer product.  It is a unique product for a small select group.  It is not for everyone.  We love it.”

As did the rest of the room before the Burgundy Roundtable today, their common love of Burgundy bringing them back year after year to do it again, with these gentle experts.  It doesn’t get old.  It brings people together.  Like citizens of an odd little country of its own, these folks today are Citizens of Burgundy.  Unite!  And enjoy every last gem of a drop.  See you next year.

Burgundy

Thank you to the Nantucket Golf Club for hosting a wonderful event.

The Roundtable consisted of:  Michel Anglada, Laurent Drouhin, Alex Gambal, Pierre Rovani, Philippe Senard, Lorraine Senard, Diana Gambal, Martine Deleger, and Anthony Hanson.

The menu of NGC Chef Steven Haverson:

Symposium Wines:

2009 Chassagne-Montrachet, Morgeot, Bruno Colin 1er Cru (Anglada-Deleger)

2008 Chassagne-Montrachet, Marquis de Laguiche, Joseph Drouhin 1er Cru (Maison Joseph Drouhin)

2009 Puligny-Montrachet (Alex Gambal)

2009 Beaune-Greves, Remoissenet 1er Cru (Remoissenet Pere et Fils)

2009 Corton, Clos de Meix, Domaine Comte Senard Grand Cru (Domaine Comte Senard)

Amuse:

Smoked Salmon, Creme Fraiche, Oestra Caviar on Edible Spoon Waskami Seaweed

First Course:

Lobster Cake, Wild Rice, Saffron Vanilla Sauce, Beet Chip

2009 Puligny-Montrachet, Les Truffieres, Bruno Colin, 1er Cru (Anglada-Deleger)

Second Course:

Prime Medallion of Filet Mignon, Mushroom Reduction, Roesti Potato, Haricot Vert Bundle, Baby Tomatoes Marmalade

2006 Corton, les Paulands, Domaine Comte Senard AOC Grand Cru

Cheeses

Epoisses, Delice de Pommardy, Comte 18 month old, Fig Paste, Black Cherry Preserves and Pain d’Avignon

2007 Chapelle-Chambertin, Remoissenet Grand Cru (Remoissenet Pere et Fils)

2007 Clos Vougeot, Alex Gambal Grand Cru (Alex Gambal)

PHOTO Gallery: Nantucket Wine Festival 16 (2012)

The 16th edition of the Nantucket Wine Festival featured incredible weather, wonderful wine, food, winemakers and chefs, and the always fun-seeking festival crowd.  Everyone enjoyed the myriad events, dinners, seminars and tastings.  If only NWF17 would arrive sooner.  It’s too good to wait so long!  Here are some images from this year’s event.  Click on images to enlarge.

Family and Quality Above All: Laurent Drouhin

On a beautiful spring day, Denis Toner and Laurent Drouhin met in Banksville, New York recently to share some coffee, laughs and good conversation.

Denis Toner & Laurent Drouhin

Laurent expressed his thoughts on a variety of topics including the upcoming Nantucket Wine Festival May 16-20, 2012.

“I plan to have a very special dinner this year,” Laurent said in speaking of NWF16.  “It’ll be called ‘M&M’ dinner, because we’ll open the best of Musigny and Montrachet that evening, and we’ll do it in the highest quality setting possible.”  He refers to the marquee dinner engagements that are a hallmark of Toner’s wine festival, and something that sets it apart.

Denis Toner, Founder NWF

“You really get the chance to know people in these intimate settings, at a dinner with the wine principle like we do.  It gives people a chance to become friends, and that’s exactly what happens,” Denis happily reflected.  Laurent will certainly deliver, as he’s no stranger to quality, or the family business.

Laurent is fourth generation Maison Joseph Drouhin, which is headquartered in Beaune, France in the heart of Burgundy.  The company was founded in 1880 by Laurent’s great great grandfather Joseph, as both a winery and a negociant owning parcels of land allowing for additional wine production.  The practice continues today, as Maison Drouhin owns over 73 hectares (182.5 acres) of prime lands in Burgundy and Chablis, where Joseph was from.

Laurent Drouhin

The four Drouhin siblings now operate the business, including sister Veronique, based in Oregon and Burgundy (handling wine-making), and brothers Frederic (Board), Philippe (in charge of vineyards), and Laurent (brand ambassador for the Caribbean and the United States, their largest sales territory).

Regarding representing the brand in America, Laurent considered his role.  “It’s a big job and one that I am happy to do,” Laurent offered over espresso and crème brûlée.  “But for me it involved so much travel, I came to a point of decision one day when my daughter said I was always gone.  She was right, and I wanted to change that.  So I asked my family to move to America with me, to take them with me on the road in a sense.  Fortunately, they thought that was a great idea, and here we are based in the US now,” he said.

It’s clear that for Laurent, the one most important thing in life is family.  The other, when it comes to the family business, is quality.  “To see my family, and to do my work, it was essential to stay together.  And to do my job well, I had to be located in our largest market.”  Laurent pondered some of the ramifications of such a move.  “I’m still French!  I am about to vote in the upcoming French presidential election, and that’s easy to do on time from right here in New York.  Each vote counts, so I participate,” he added.

But if his choices are any reflection of the evolving marketplace for wine, it’s a global economy in this field like so many others today.  “The future is certainly multi-national, it is important to reach out to new markets as well as the established ones like the US.  China is an important new arrival in the wine world, and they have a big appetite for high quality wines,” Laurent noted.  “It’s not enough to simply keep pace in this business, I need to, and want to, work harder, and get the word out about not only our wines, but quality wines in general.”  It’s true more wines than ever stock the shelves of wine shops all over, and with that come more French wines to choose from.  “We have very high quality wines at Drouhin, I just need to make sure people discover it.”

Laurent Drouhin

It’s been a discovery process living abroad, too.  In addition to voting and staying in touch with life in France, Laurent makes sure plenty of longtime family traditions appear in New York, too.  “My children won’t grow up in the wine barrels like I did, playing down there in the cellars for hours under the streets of Beaune.  But they have other things, and there’s plenty to learn from.  We have great schools where I live, and I don’t forget to serve bread and wine on the table for the children to become curious about.  And they do.”  Laurent said he’s not interested in pushing the kids into the wine business, but by nature they have become intrigued on their own.

Laurent shares his passion for wine by simply being himself, even when he’s in the role of Dad instead of brand ambassador.  He loves the family business, the traditions that come with it, and the chance to share his love of Burgundy.

“It’s in the glass,” is all Laurent needs to say to make his point.  And it’s true.  Surrounding him along the way, his family, and in the glass, quality.  Above all.

The Nantucket Wine Festival takes place May 16-20, 2012.  For tickets or more information, see http://www.nantucketwinefestival.com/.

Denis and Laurent

Jumelage 2011: A Tale of Two Towns, One Heart

In October of 2011, there was a celebration of two towns with common ties.  The Jumelage (or “twinning”) was again celebrated in recognition of the commonalities between Nantucket, and Beaune, France in the heart of Burgundy.  An enthusiastic band of Nantucketers made the long journey to the Gold Coast, where Burgundy is born, and wine is cherished as a way of life.  They were met by an equally hearty contingent of Frenchmen, all there to acknowledge a wonderful bond.

It was 2006 when the initial Jumelage occurred on Nantucket soil, after NWF founder Denis Toner realized the two places he loves most have a whole lot in common.

Jumelage 2006 plaque on India Street, Nantucket

“It’s apparent there’s a kinship between Nantucket and Beaune,” Toner said.  “It’s undeniable once you experience both in person, from the cobblestones to the window boxes, the deep history to the love of gastronomy.  There’s also an impulse for preservation in both places, this leads to preserving the inherent local identity, and that’s part of the kinship.”

Indeed, once in Beaune to celebrate the Jumelage, the ties became obvious to the nearly 50 Nantucketers making the trip, and “Now I get it” was a common refrain.  Toner continued, “Beaune is one of the greenest cities in Europe, and there’s a certain pride in the townspeople.  It’s a very walkable town, just like home.  It even has fog.”  Rhetorically he posed, “sound familiar??”

None of that was lost on the French, either.  They rallied to the cause, and came out in force for the event.  The entire Beaune city council was present, as was the Mayor who made a special trip back from Paris to join the festivities, which were centered around the historic Hotel de Ville.  The Mayor, as an aside, noted America’s own automobile company Chevrolet hails from Beaune, where they had a small shop (rumor has it the famous “bowtie” logo of Chevrolet was inspired by wallpaper seen in a French hotel by a Chevy co-founder).

But this Jumelage recognizes much more, and that’s a celebration of a way of life.

Chevalier Montrachet

Nantucketers and Frenchmen alike know the pleasure of the table well, as each community makes gastronomy an integral part of its identity.  And where goes great food, so goes great wine (and those that love them), as any visitor to either place would surely attest.

To share those pleasures of the table together, this Jumelage featured a wonderful event showcasing both Nantucket and Burgundian culinary talent.  La Paulee, as it’s called, is a communal festive meal typically held at the end of a grape harvest, an event to share and enjoy as one.  This special night left the appetizers to the chefs of Nantucket, and the main course to the Frenchmen, all under one roof, in one kitchen.  Representing Nantucket were Seth Raynor (Boarding House/Pearl/Corazon), Tom Berry (Great Harbor Yacht Club) and Scott Osif (The Galley).  All three chefs had just been in NYC preparing the Nantucket James Beard Dinner, to much acclaim, before skipping over the pond in time for the Jumelage.  Judging by the huge positive response to Seth’s green sauce for the oysters, for one, everyone was glad they made it.  La Paulee était une grande succès!

The inaugural Jumelage on Nantucket in 2006 was attended by visiting dignitaries of the wine world from Beaune, so in 2011 it was Nantucket’s turn to travel (Jumelage 2016 will be on Nantucket once again).  But that doesn’t mean either group waits five years to venture abroad (thankfully!).  The world famous annual wine auction, the Hospices de Beaune, took place in the third week of November.  Here 40 vineyards presented barrels for auction, and one-of-a-kind wines were sold to the highest bidder.  This auction featured a delightful 2009 vintage carrying the auspicious label “Les Amis de Nantucket”, and friends from Nantucket indeed bought a barrel together.  Only in the past 5 years have non-trade or civilians been invited to the auction – this was a great chance to experience the historic event.  Now at the coming NWF in May, the Mayor of Beaune will present a seminar on how to buy wine at this famous auction.  This will be a treat for those lucky to attend the seminar, and an inside look into a fascinating world.

Finally (most thought, “sadly”), the 2011 Jumelage celebration came to a close at an 11th century abbey, located on the pilgrims’ trail amidst rolling hills and ancient stones.  After a vigorous week of meals, touring Burgundy and toasting the twin towns, the time arrived for a final farewell luncheon.

It was idyllic.

Many Nantucketers stayed to savor the experience one last time together, some even spending the night on the grounds.  Welsh ponies grazed upon grass, as so many gastronomic pilgrims marched up the hill to the abbey.  Toner had arranged a special treat for those hardy travelers who came so far, and stayed to the end.  Compte Philippe Senard, proprietor of Domain Compte Senard of Aloxe-Corton and the Hill of Corton, was on hand to dispense awards to all in attendance (legend has it Emperor Charlemagne granted the lands on the Hill of Corton in 775 for the planting of vines).  The aptly named award of “Chevalier de Jumelage de Nantucket et Beaune” was bestowed upon each attendee, coming up in turn at the call of their name.  This “knighting” brought tears to many eyes, as the warmth of the experience, the very magic of this Jumelage, poured forth in a well of emotion.

The Jumelage may only happen every 5 years, but for many people from these two towns, the pride of home, community and ascetic pleasure is always with them.  It’s the ephemeral beauty and spirit, an overwhelming pride and joy in each person, that reminds us we’re alive, we’re doing fine, and whether it’s in the heart of Burgundy, or the warm open spaces of Nantucket, we’re home.

And that’s exactly where we want to be, wherever we are.

coming home

NWF Documentary Special for Television in the Works

Nantucket Wine Festival is pleased to announce the signing of our concept for development of a television production by Frogwater Pictures.  We are pleased that Alan Morell, CEO of CMG Holdings Group Inc., Creative Management Group Inc. Agency, presented us this media opportunity for a national platform with esteemed Executive Producer Tim Troke and Frogwater Pictures.
Tim Troke, Executive Producer Frogwater Pictures said: “Nantucket Wine Festival has been a premier event for many years under Denis and his colleagues and when my agent Alan brought it to me to consider, we were very excited to be the Executive Producers and develop the concept for the TV Show”.
Said Denis Toner: “Nantucket Wine Festival (NWF) is the Masters of wine festivals and we are quite pleased that Alan packaged NWF with Frogwater Pictures for our positive concept. The mutual goal for the project is to celebrate the positive spirit of the Nantucket Wine Festival”.
http://www.macreportmedia.com/ViewSubmission.aspx?submissionRequest=10159

Diversity and Poetry: The World of Burgundy 2011

The Nantucket Wine Festival is special for so many reasons, including its relatively small size, access to wine principals, the quality it garners, its jovial personality, and of course the incredible beauty of Nantucket surrounding it.

on the way to 'Sconset

Another reason is undeniable, and that is the magical experiences that come of bringing so much together.  The Luncheon Symposia program, started in 2008, was created to offer just such an opportunity to relish intimacy, beauty and quality in welcoming places.

The Burgundy Roundtable 2011 aced it.

Set within the heavenly confines of the Nantucket Golf Club, with a staff so gracious they reaffirm one’s belief in the goodness of humanity, it was a perfect afternoon in one of the most beautiful corners of the world.

Alex Gambal Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'La Maltroie' 2009

It was an ethereal event, like a misty morning, or the contents of a good bottle of Burgundy.  One can’t possess it, but rather it must possess you, like the company of good friends, or the swing of a 6-iron to three feet.  It’s a momentary pleasure meant to be enjoyed in the present, with the promise of someday returning to such a special place in time.

Add to it the highly talented and extremely approachable panel of Burgundian winemakers, and no guest of this affair was left wanting.  It’s true the panel was preaching to the faithful, as familiar faces from year’s past filled finely set tables in anticipation of the glorious wines and top-notch fare.  And why not?  If you love Burgundy, this was the only place you could be today.

NGC House Manager Tom Bresette

NGC House Manager Tom Bresette elegantly set the scene, welcoming winemakers and guests alike as if they were old friends (and many of them are to Tom B.), while the French themselves saw familiar faces, if far from home.  It’s a family affair of sorts, certainly within the wineries as generations take over from forefathers, but also between the producers too.  Everyone knows each other in Burgundy, just as on Nantucket the regular crowd will always find so many familiar faces and friends to enjoy.  It’s one of the pleasures of small places; the chance to truly know one’s community can be elusive.  But not on Nantucket, or in Burgundy, or even during the short span of the Burgundy Roundtable.

Denis Toner, Laurent Drouhin

The winemakers were quick to reach the point.  “It’s in the glass”, said Laurent Drouhin, as the panel settled in.  Panelists included Michael Ragg (Owner, Michief and Mayhem), Jean-Charles Thomas (Head Winemaker, Maison Louis Latour),

Michael Ragg, Fiona Ragg, Laurent Drouhin, Francine Picard, Geraldine Godot, Cara Schwindt, Jean-Charles Thomas (l to r)

Geraldine Godot (Winemaker, Alex Gambal), Francine Picard (Owner, Michel Picard), and Laurent Drouhin (Maison Joseph Drouhin).  The event was moderated by the charming and talented Cara Schwindt (Sommeliere and Wine Director at Stein Eriksen Lodge in Deer Valley, Utah).

The luncheon commenced with a wine-tasting; each winemaker discussed their chosen vintage as the wines were poured, and the adjectives were unleashed.  Francine Picard lead with her Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chaulmaux 2006, upon which she waxed poetic:  “Puligny comes from next to Chassagne, near Meursault, and is harvested up on a hill.  It’s a smooth vintage with nice richness, and a good amount of acidity but not too much.”

Puligny-Montrachet, Michel Picard

She spoke of her family history, which began in Burgundy in 1951 and has been carefully cultivated ever since.  “As soon as you take care of your land, your wine will follow…”, she offered, and confirmed what the audience already knew.  “This Puligny is enjoyable right now, and will be for many years”.

Michael Ragg spoke next of his Mischief and Mayhem,

Michael Ragg, Mischief and Mayhem

noting his move to Burgundy in March of 2003, and of the great year 2007 for white wine in Burgundy.  “I’m a newcomer to the region, but have been welcomed warmly, and enjoy sharing my wines.  This Puligny is rich without being heavy, and the grapes come from a parcel exactly on the level of Le Montrachet, just across a 3 meter wide road,” he said (Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets 2007).

Geraldine Godot (Winemaker, Alex Gambal) chose Chorey Les Beaune 2009, showing off a red Village wine that is a “new wine, with a black currant nose, soft tannins, and a good price too.”  And Jean-Charles Thomas (Head Winemaker, Maison Louis Latour) then offered his Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2005, a beautiful supple Grand Cru white, coming from “white clay and chalk soil, barrel-aged in oak barrels we make ourselves at our cooperage from hand-selected staves stored outside for 3 years, then toasted to instill a smooth smoky flavor to the wine.”  He spoke about Latour starting “two centuries ago in Burgundy, and now Domaine Latour has 108 acres, with 40+ acres being Grand Cru level.”

All of the winemakers shared such obvious love for their wines, their origins, their Burgundy.  It was the elegant Laurent Drouhin who captured the magic in words, while pouring something equally compelling in the glasses.

Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 2005 (Maison Drouhin)

“I chose something unique today, and a famous wine of Burgundy, Le Montrachet.  My family is the exclusive winemaker of grapes coming from 25% of the plot of Le Montrachet, where the history dates back to 1363 and the lands of the Laguiche family.”  Laurent continued, “this wine is a masterpiece, and the best dry white wine in the world.  This 2005 vintage is deep, intense, complex.  It’s true.”

“Now,” Laurent said softly as he closed his eyes and raised his glass, “enter religion.”  He rejoiced in an well-tested theory, “when you drink Montrachet, it’s an experience, or, as my daughter would say, OMG!”  And in further explaining, he perhaps was also describing the afternoon:  “sensation and pleasure are all that matters… in the case of Burgundy, it comes from the terroir.”

Denis Toner, Mark Donato

What is pleasure?   Today it was sharing a mutual passion, on different levels, with a common if temporary bond.  It’s fun to experience it together.

Francine Picard, Laurent Drouhin

After four generations of the Drouhin family producing Burgundy wines, Laurent knows his way through the vineyard.  Several years ago at Maison Drouhin in Beaune, France, Laurent spoke of his youth.  “I was raised in the barrels,” and literally he meant it, as he showed off the playroom of his early years with his siblings, the caves and empty casks below the estate.  “Burgundy is the best of white wine.  In Burgundy we produce ‘terroir wine,’ not ‘chardonnay’ or ‘pinot noir’ but a wine of the place, soil, climate, all of it.”

wine-tasting

Francine Picard chimed in, concurring:  “Weather is the key – it differs from village to villlage.  It varies so much.  What nature gives us is variety.”  She added, “we’re diverse, instead of being one big brand like Bordeaux.”

Laurent shared more of his thoughts on the core of Burgundy.  “Each one is so different, that’s the beauty of it.  Terroir is part of it, the people are part of it too.”  And as if to dig deeper at an elemental, if perhaps under-appreciated, truth, he said “Burgundy wines are not technical wines; these are wines with a soul.”  The French at the panel have spent their entire lives cultivating this liquid soul, and the guests in the room hummed with understanding.  Laurent swirled the Montrachet in his glass, examining its body and color, saying, “the mood of the wines changes with the weather, and that’s what it’s all about in Burgundy.”

“It’s about the diversity, never forget the diversity;  the people are there to serve the diversity,” he paused thoughtfully, “and this is Burgundy wine.”

guests at the Burgundy Roundtable 2011

With that kernel of truth to hold on to, the guests turned their attention to their tables.  Courses were served, with well-tuned pairings of wines and winemakers.  The French winemakers in the room, responsible for the wines in the glasses, only enhanced the experience.  And that was the point.  Everyone shared the enjoyment together.   The fare included an extremely well-received Short Rib Bourguignon.  It may have been this course, or perhaps the one outside the window glowing in the soft spring light, that caused Laurent to speculate: “One day when the fifth generation takes over in the Drouhin family, I’d like to come back right here to Nantucket to retire and play golf.”  From one community to another, it’d be a most welcome addition.

Maison Jos.Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouges 2006

It is well worth acknowledging the excellence of the kitchen staff at the Nantucket Golf Club, who despite the club not reaching its peak season yet, were today at the peak of their game during lunch (Chef Steven Polowy, his staff, and House Manager Tom Bresette.  See Chef Polowy’s full menu, below).  Breaking par is one tough task on these links, but not today in the dining room.  It was all aces.

NGC dining room and kitchen team, Chef Steven Polowy, & House Manager Tom Bresette (far right)

Menu for the Burgundy Roundtable 2011, by Chef Steven Polowy of NGC

Amuse

Carmelized Sea Scallop

Garlic Parsley Butter Escargot Ragout

First Course

Tarragon Salmon Fallot Mustard Sauce

Petit Frisee Bacon & Chive Salad, Creme Fraiche Potato

Alex Gambal Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Moltroie’ 2009

Second Course

Short Rib Bourguignon

Pappardelle Egg Noodles, Cipollini Onions & Truffled Chanterelle Sauce

Louis Latour Corton ‘Clos du Roi’ Grand Cru 2009

Domaine Michel Picard Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Chaumes’ 2005

Cheeses

Selection of Artisan Cheeses

Fresh Bijou, Bonne Bouche, Coupole Goat Cheeses & Comte

Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 2006

Mischief and Mayhem Corton Grand Cru Les Chaumes 2006

Tom Bresette, Mark Marquis Donato, Denis Toner, Randy Berry

PHOTO Gallery: Nantucket Wine Festival 15 (2011)

The 15th annual Nantucket Wine Festival was one of the best ever, due to incredible talent (winemakers and chefs), world-class fare (food and wine), jovial participants (guests and presenters), and cooperative weather (mostly blue skies, sunny days, no winds).  It doesn’t get any better than this people!  Enjoy the images (click on any image to enlarge)…

Tom Bresette, Mark Donato, Denis Toner, Randy Berry

Tim Mondavi, Denis Toner

Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

Jasmine Hirsch, David Hirsch

Denis!

Chef Tom Berry (GHYC)

Michael Ragg, Fiona Ragg, Laurent Drouhin, Francine Picard, Geraldine Godot, Jean-Charles Thomas

Tim Mondavi, Dominique DeMarville

Auctioneer Jamie Ritchie, Sotheby’s

John Kolasa, Mark Donato, Denis Toner

2012 Continental GT Bentley

George Sandeman, Sissy Biggers

Tim Mondavi, 2011 NWF Luminary of the Year

NWF 15

BOHO BBQ

Maria Helm Sinskey

duck sliders hot off the grill

Main Street, Nantucket

Skip serving his Island Creek Oysters

a tray of duck sliders

Champagne is served, at the BOHO BBQ

road to nowhere

Maria Helm Sinskey, Seth Raynor

Seth Raynor, chef/owner The Boarding House

duck sliders on the grill

Chef Maria Helm Sinskey

Seth Raynor’s carne asada tacos

Maria and Seth on the grill at the Boarding House

duck sliders by chef Maria Helm Sinskey

Seth Raynor

Madequecham beach, Nantucket

2012 Continental GT Bentley

Denis outside the Nantucket Yacht Club

Entrance to The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting

Frank Neer (center)

Madequecham

Andrea and All Kovalencik, Company of the Cauldron

salmon by Company of the Cauldron, All Kovalencik

All & his famous salmon

The Grand Tasting

The Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

monkfish!!!

EJ Harvey, Seagrille

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

oysters oh oysters

Island Creek Oysters

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

Robert Sinskey

Robert Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Vineyards

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

Ray Coursen, Elyse Vineyards

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club main room

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

Lowell Herrero

print by Lowell Herrero

Denis awarding Tim Mondavi as 2011 Luminary of the Year

Thank heaven for volunteers!

Inside the tent at The Auction Dinner

Denis at podium during The Auction Dinner

Denis and Rick

Ray Coursen, Denis Toner and friend

the best place on earth

Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

plaque on The Gifford Cup

The Gifford Cup, detail

The Gifford Cup, awarded in 2011 to Tim Mondavi

Denis Toner, chef Brooke Vosika, Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi

Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

Denis Toner

Tim Mondavi and Denis Toner

La Rioja Alta

The Auction Dinner

Veuve Clicquot!

Marquis Donato, Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

The Auction Dinner

The Auction Dinner

Lot 20 at the auction

wines at the auction

Far Niente

Robert Sinskey Vineyards

Lowell Herrero

Auction Lot 10, a trip to Beaune, Burgundy

Auction Dinner menu

NHA, beneficiary of The Auction Dinner

2012 Continental GT Bentley

Secret Beach, Nantucket

The Boarding House & The Pearl

perfection

Burgundy luncheon at The Nantucket Golf Club

The excellent dining room staff of the Nantucket Golf Club

Francine Picard, Laurent Drouhin

Michael Ragg, Mayhem and Mischief

Denis addressing the Burgundy luncheon

The Nantucket Golf Club

David Kuhn, Denis Toner

Denis Toner, Laurent Drouhin

Clos des Mouches, by Drouhin

George Sandeman, Denis Toner

Emily, Denis Toner

Mark Donato, Kate Brosnan

Amanda Morgan, Gene Mahon, Kate Brosnan

Andy Peay

John Stanton, All Kovalencik

EJ Harvey

Robert Sinskey

Ray Coursen, Elyse Vineyards

great room at The Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

The Grand Tasting

The Grand Tasting

Lowell Herrero

print by Lowell Herrero

Denis awarding Tim Mondavi 2011 NWF Luminary of the Year

one of the wonderful NWF volunteers

The Auction Dinner

Denis and Rick

Tim Mondavi, Dominique DeMarville

Ray Coursen, Denis Toner and friend

plaque, The Gifford Cup

detail, The Gifford Cup

The Gifford Cup

Denis Toner, Brooke Vosika, Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi

Mark Donato, Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

Tim Mondavi, Continuum Estate

Auctioneer Jamie Ritchie, Sotheby’s

wines for the auction

cocktail hour, Auction Dinner

Veuve Clicquot

The Auction Dinner

The Auction Dinner

Lot 20 wines

wines at the Auction Dinner

Far Niente

Robert Sinskey wines

Lowell Herrero

Auction Lot 10, trip to Beaune, Burgundy

Auction dinner menu

NHA

2012 Continental GT Bentley

The Boarding House and The Pearl

Main Street, Nantucket

perfection

Masters of Burgundy

Burgundy luncheon, Nantucket Golf Club

The excellent dining room staff at The Nantucket Golf Club

Francine Picard, Laurent Drouhin

Denis addressing the Burgundy luncheon

Tom Bresette, Nantucket Golf Club

Denis at the Burgundy event

Tom Bresette, Mark Donato, Denis Toner, Randy Berry

Denis Toner, Laurent Drouhin

Denis Toner

John Kolasa, Mark Donato, Denis Toner

Emily, Denis Toner

Wendy Janelle

The Harbor Gala

Mark Donato, Kate Brosnan

amazing foie gras by Angela Raynor

Cyril Renaud

Tim Mondavi, Continuum Estate

Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi

Amanda Morgan, Gene Mahon, Kate Brosnan

Andy Peay

John Stanton and All Kovalencik

Tim Mondavi is 2011 Luminary of the Year at NWF Auction Dinner

2012 Continental GT, Bentley

With the 2012 Bentley Continental GT parked out front (of which 3 have already been sold this week, for those needing 500+ horse power), the annual Saturday night Wine Auction Dinner always seeks to impress.  This year was no exception.

But perhaps most impressive of all was the substance surrounding the evening, instead of merely glitz, glamor and impressive auction lots to bid upon.

Tim Mondavi, Denis Toner (holding Gifford Cup)

This year’s honoree is the soft-spoken and widely-accomplished Tim Mondavi, the NFW Luminary of the Year for 2011.  Tim received the esteemed Gifford Cup, named after Bud Gifford, who NWF founder Denis Toner described as “the man who first made wine a serious endeavor on Nantucket”.  Past honorees are Jorge Ordonez, Ray Coursen (present at tonight’s event), and Ming Tsai.

The Gifford Cup plaque

The evening began with a screening of a 4 minute trailer from Rick Burns’ documentary “Nantucket”, which has been commissioned by the NHA.

"Nantucket" by Rick Burns

The full film will premier on July 2, 2011 at Children’s Beach in a free screening for the public, then will air at the NHA’s beautiful Whaling Museum twice daily for at least the rest of the summer.  Don’t miss it.  Rick Burns is a pro and an amazing story-teller, and his treatment of a precious subject will garner attention, scrutiny and ultimately praise for getting at the core of what so many love.  Nantucket is an ever-evolving place, ephemeral and fragile, that changes with the times and the people present on her shores.  It’s the experiences you have that count, while they last.

After the screening, Denis Toner called Tim Mondavi front and center to be recognized as the 2011 Luminary of the Year.

Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi, Denis Toner

The award is presented to “an individual whose work has had a profound effect upon the landscape of food and wine”, and Denis called Tim a deserving honoree for “his unparalleled contributions to the world of wine, both in America and abroad, through his devotion to quality wine-making for decades.”

Tim Mondavi

Tim Mondavi has for years made wines in the tradition of his father Robert, and recently started his own new solo endeavor called “Continuum Estate” in Napa.  In accepting his award, Tim said “Nantucket your hospitality is amazing and warm, even the heavens opened up and welcomed us with warm days and sunny skies”.  He thanked his gracious hosts for showing him “the best aspects of Nantucket”, and he thanked Denis for the invitation to attend.  Tim concluded with,  “We love being here, thank you Nantucket Wine Festival, and thank you Nantucket!”  He extended an invitation at-large to the room to visit Continuum Estate where “we have a westerly exposure, red rocky soil, and some very good wine.  It’s a beautiful spot, please come out and visit.”

But if Tim was perhaps too humble to mention his role in the world of wine himself, his impressive daughter Carissa helped put things in perspective.  “My father was responsible for Robert Mondavi wines for 30 years, responsible for the reserve wines, for the Opus line, for the overseas ventures, and behind the wine-making in our family for so long,” she said.

Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

Carissa continued:  “He has worked so hard for so long, and has always been quietly in the shadows while making the best wines our family has to offer.  Now we’ve just shown our 4th vintage this year at Continuum, where we have one wine at one estate.  It’s our effort to continue the family tradition; it’s our own new endeavor where we’re taking things to the next level.”

And showing the same grace and appreciation so wonderfully exemplified by her father, Carissa Mondavi concluded by saying “It’s a huge honor for us to be here with you tonight on Nantucket, at the wine festival we already love so much.  It’s incredible that you are recognizing our new fledgling estate, our next evolution of Tim Mondavi’s wine-making at Continuum, and all that my father has done before.  We’re humbled.  Thank you, Nantucket.”  As the family tradition continues through the generations, the best qualities seem to have survived from Robert to Tim and on to Carissa.

The night was a grand affair, with wonderful lots bid on and purchased by happy auction-goers.

Auctioneer Jamie Ritchie, Sotheby's

The event was expertly guided by Jamie Ritchie, CEO and President of Sotheby’s Wine (Americas and Asia), who with assertive style and skill pulled in bids on lots ranging from a St. Bart’s retreat, to dinner at the Oldest House on Nantucket.  A trip to Beaune to Denis Toner’s estate in Burgundy went for $15,000.

Lot 10: trip to Beaune

Dinner was expertly prepared by Brooke Vosika (Executive Chef, Four Seasons Hotel Boston) and Fred Bisaillon (Executive Chef, Brandt Point Grill Nantucket), full menu below.  And wines were provided by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, and Newton Vineyards all night long.

Lowell Herrero print

Proceeds of the auction go directly to the Nantucket Historical Association, and the evening raised $140,000 in total.  NHA Executive Director Bill Tramposh said, “We’re proud of Rick Burns’ film on Nantucket, and we’re very very grateful to Denis and the wine festival for their generous donation from tonight’s auction.”

There was a lot of love and respect at the 2011 Auction Dinner, and a lot of money raised for a worthy cause.  People displayed an appreciation for Nantucket and her history, for the heritage of wine and one of its stewards in Tim Mondavi, and for new beginnings in our evolving world.  In short, it was an evening of substance all around.

Denis Toner, chef Brooke Vosika, Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi

Continuum Estate:  http://www.continuumestate.com

Nantucket Historical Association:  http://www.nha.org

NHA

Menu:

Wines:  Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Newton Vineyards

Veuve Clicquot

Reception:  Forbidden Rice Cake, BBQ Eel Avocado, Scallop Ceviche, Pepper Relish Deviled Egg, Bacon & Potato Chips, Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne

Dinner:

Tomato Elixir, Balsamic “Rain” Lobster Salad, Cauliflower Cous Cous, Crisp Sprout Leaves, Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay 2007

Braised Short Rib of Beef, Tallegio Ravioli, Crispy Pork Ears, English Peas, Toasted Horseradish & Truffle Jus, Newton Unfiltered Merlot 2006

Ginger & Strawberry “Float”, Pistachio Macaroon, Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec

Chocolate

Brooke Vosika, Executive Chef, Fours Seasons Hotel Boston

Fred Bisaillon, Executive Chef, Brandt Point Grill Nantucket

Tim Mondavi, Dominique Demarville (Veuve Clicquot)

A Rare Vintage: NWF Turns 15

NWF sat down with festival founder Denis Toner to discuss the 15th annual Nantucket Wine Festival, events big, small and special, and some of the memories that have been created over the years.

Nantucket Wine Festival:  On May 18-22, 2011 it’s the 15^th annual Nantucket Wine Festival.  Can you believe it??

Denis Toner, Founder of Nantucket Wine Festival:  I’m both surprised and have a sense of wonder that we’ve made it so far.  I can hardly believe it, really.   But what comes of it is a chance to make people happy, to promote Nantucket, and to do something good for the community.   Now that is something I feel good about, and something I’m very proud that we’ve accomplished.

I say “we” because you have to understand it’s a team effort.  Without dozens and dozens of people working extremely hard at this, the festival wouldn’t have evolved as it has, and it wouldn’t be so very special.  For that I am grateful, for the team.  Plus it’s a whole lot of fun to do things together, there’s a shared sense of satisfaction that wouldn’t exist otherwise.

Denis and Susan Toner

The early years were really something.  We’d make mistakes and take wine to the wrong place, or double-book someone in two places.  But we always had a sense of fun about it, and everyone just rolled with the punches.  We still maintain that sensibility today, and it comes through in the feeling of the festival.  People come here to enjoy themselves, and they do.

One consistency throughout the years has been the support we’ve received, from both the Nantucket community, and the wine community at large.  We’ve always had tremendous encouragement from those areas, and that has meant a lot to me.

In the past, there wasn’t a lot happening on Nantucket before Memorial Day weekend, it was quite dead.  Now the community comes alive in May, all the restaurants open up, there’s a lot of business happening, with people everywhere.  It’s now one of the busiest weekends of the year.  That’s a great result.

NWF:  You have selected the 4^th recipient for Luminary of the Year.  Who and why?

Tim Mondavi, Continuum Estate

Denis:  The Mondavi family is one of the great families of the wine world.  Truly world-renowned, and deservedly so, they are the royalty of American wine.  Now they are on to another generation with Carissa Mondavi working with her dad Tim, just as Tim worked with his father Robert before that.  Tim Mondavi is our choice for Luminary of the Year, our 4^th such recipient.  We present the award to “an individual whose work has had a profound effect upon the landscape of food and wine”, and that describes Tim quite well.  His new project is called “Continuum Estate”, where Tim continues the family tradition of making amazing wines.

Tim Mondavi, Mark Donato, Carissa Mondavi

Like Nantucket, it’s about continuity and history.  Continuum is back to the future, in a sense.  Back to being hyper-focused on quality, just like his father proselytized early on.  I’m thrilled to have Tim Mondavi as this year’s honoree, and I think he’s also happy to attend.

NWF:  Some wonderful events are part of the festival.   Describe The Grand Tasting, one of the largest events at NWF.

Denis:  The Grand Tasting has evolved for us.  This year we’ve made it by invitation only, for the presenters.  I want to make it about quality, and make this the Masters of Wine, the premium, the top.  So we’ve limited the presenters, and in doing so, have been able to take the quality up to another level.  This is the highest quality yet.

Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

There will be 200 wineries at the Nantucket Yacht Club over the festival weekend, along with all the amazing purveyors of food.  It’s a gastronomic delight, really.  The amazing thing is, it’s still only 200 presenters, so you can carry on conversations with people, and learn directly from the winemakers, particularly with the amount of time you have on hand. We have the highest concentration of principals and winemakers of any event I know.  There’ll be over 50 at the Grand Tasting alone, and that’s quite a ratio of principals to presenters.

NWF:  At the other end of the spectrum there’s “Great Wines in Grand Houses”, offering an intimacy not found at many wine festivals.

Denis:  This is a unique and amazing program, and I’m very proud of it.  It’s not everywhere that homeowners will open their magnificent homes for something like this.  But Nantucketers do, and with typical style and gusto.  There are 2 options; the first is a wine tasting in a grand domicile, with principals from the estates pouring the wines, and approximately 15 guests tasting their amazing vintages.  The other option is very intimate, and that’s the five dinners at five amazing Nantucket homes.

A grand Nantucket home

These are wonderful evenings, with no holds barred.  These dinners put the “grand” in it, and people are always impressed.  There are visiting chefs from all over the country to prepare the dinners, and this year we’ll have 12 winemakers from St. Emilion involved to pour their beautiful Bordeaux wines.  I’ve witnessed several lifelong friendships develop from these dinners; it’s wonderful to see.

NWF:  There’s a special event involving the Bordeaux region of St. Emilion this year.  Tell us about it.

Denis:  Well we’ve got something truly special lined up this year.  It’s the “St. Emilion 1^st Growths Tasting & Luncheon” at the Great Harbor Yacht Club (May 21, 11a).  In St. Emilion there’s a hierarchy of wine.  We have 12 of the top 15 estates attending this luncheon, with acclaimed executive chef Tom Berry of the Great Harbor Yacht Club preparing the meal.  This is an historic event; I’ve never heard of that many principals from St. Emilion attending one event!  It’s a big deal, and we couldn’t be happier about it.  They’ll pour the 2008 vintage first, and then with the meal, the 2007 vintage will be offered.  If you’re not fortunate enough to be attending, you will hear about this one I assure you.  It’s that good!

NWF:  At special events are special people.  One such person is John Kolasa of Chateau Canon and Chateau Rauzan Segla.

Denis:  John is responsible for arranging the St. Emilion lunch, so thank you John for that.  He’s an impressive figure in the world of wine, just ask anyone and they’ll tell you about what he has achieved.

John Kolasa

He’s the GM of Chateau Canon and Chateau Rauzan Segla, two wonderful estates in Bordeaux.  The Chanel family owns these estates, and on the Chanel board sits Nantucketer Arie Kopelman, so we have a strong connection there.  John Kolasa is an alpha-male of the wine world, and justifiably so.  We’re thrilled to have him at the festival this year.

NWF:  A deeply missed champion of Bordeaux sadly passed away in August 2010, that’s Thierry Manoncourt of Chateau Figeac.  You spent the day with him at Chateau Figeac; describe that lunch and day, and the passion that still poured out of Thierry.

Denis:  Yes I am sad to even think about this.  Thierry was such an impressive person.  I was very fortunate in that I spent the day with him at Chateau Figeac a few years ago, where he hosted a lunch for us.  Thierry was the consummate host; he also shared with us some highly personal matters.  He recalled meeting Jacques Chevignard, a lion of Burgundy and esteemed member of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in service to Burgundy.  He met Jacques at Buchenwald concentration camp where they were both interred during the war, and became fast and lifelong friends.  Thierry spoke of the terror of those times, but also was able to find the silver lining in that he made a good friend that he would know for many years hence.  Both men have since passed away, and we have lost two champions of France, and two great men.

Thierry Manoncourt

Thierry had such a passion for wine and family, and I was able experience both that day at Chateau Figeac.  We dined with the whole family, even seeing family photo albums while we heard personal stories all afternoon.  I witnessed his passion, the proud patriarch where he most enjoyed spending time, at the table in his home with his family around him.

Chateau Figeac

The wine world misses Thierry Manoncourt, we all do.  I’m happy to say his son-in-law Comte Eric D’Aramon, the GM of Chateau Figeac, will be in attendance at our festival this year.

NWF:  Locals from Nantucket are also a big part of the festival.  One example is chef-owner All Kovalencik, although of course there are many.

Denis:  All has been with the festival for all 15 years, and is always there serving his famous salmon.  It’s divine, and the event wouldn’t be the same without it, or him.  He along with his amazing wife Andrea own the acclaimed Company of the Cauldron, which is consistently recognized as one of the best restaurants in the country, let alone Nantucket.  I’m so happy he continues to be such an important part of the festival, like so many other locals.  The local community is a big deal for me, and the festival.

Angela Raynor, with Denis

There is tremendous culinary talent on Nantucket.  The list is long, and includes the Raynors, the Silvas, Michael Lascola, Alan Cuhna; so many great restauranteurs on our little island, it’s just incredible and impossible to name them all.  I think part of it has to do with the history of the island.  Back when I was the sommelier at the Chanticleer in ‘Sconset, I saw generations of diners returning year after year after year.  With the great food, there was always the great wine on the table, and fathers passed to sons and daughters an appreciation of both.  So the tradition of great food and wine is deeply instilled in the Nantucket community, and is part of why the island has maintained such high standards over the years.

NWF:  Do you enjoy the festival as much now as you did 15 years ago?

Denis and NWF friends in France

Denis:  You know I do, I really do.  It’s a labor of love, because it’s a lot of work.  And there’s a huge team of dedicated people responsible for why the Nantucket Wine Festival both survives, and thrives.  I suppose that’s one of the elements I enjoy so much – the teamwork, the camaraderie, the real joie de vivre of the people involved.  There’s both an esprit de corps about it, and a passion I have rarely witnessed in other fields.  Wine and food people work hard and play hard, and that has always made what I do a real pleasure.  I still feel the energy of it all, and get a lift from the festival every year.  And I am so happy to promote and support the island of Nantucket.  This is what I love to do, and I am lucky to be able to do it.

NWF:  Thank you Denis, we all look forward to the next 15 years.  Congratulations on your success.

Denis:  No, thank you, and please congratulate the whole team for the success of the festival, it’s a family affair, and we have a big family!

NWF:  You’re a good man Denis, and congratulations to the whole team on the 15^th anniversary of the Nantucket Wine Festival.

Denis at Clos Vougeot, Burgundy