It was 2006 when the initial Jumelage occurred on Nantucket soil, after NWF founder Denis Toner realized the two places he loves most have a whole lot in common.

Jumelage 2006 plaque on India Street, Nantucket

“It’s apparent there’s a kinship between Nantucket and Beaune,” Toner said.  “It’s undeniable once you experience both in person, from the cobblestones to the window boxes, the deep history to the love of gastronomy.  There’s also an impulse for preservation in both places, this leads to preserving the inherent local identity, and that’s part of the kinship.”

Indeed, once in Beaune to celebrate the Jumelage, the ties became obvious to the nearly 50 Nantucketers making the trip, and “Now I get it” was a common refrain.  Toner continued, “Beaune is one of the greenest cities in Europe, and there’s a certain pride in the townspeople.  It’s a very walkable town, just like home.  It even has fog.”  Rhetorically he posed, “sound familiar??”

None of that was lost on the French, either.  They rallied to the cause, and came out in force for the event.  The entire Beaune city council was present, as was the Mayor who made a special trip back from Paris to join the festivities, which were centered around the historic Hotel de Ville.  The Mayor, as an aside, noted America’s own automobile company Chevrolet hails from Beaune, where they had a small shop (rumor has it the famous “bowtie” logo of Chevrolet was inspired by wallpaper seen in a French hotel by a Chevy co-founder).

But this Jumelage recognizes much more, and that’s a celebration of a way of life.

Chevalier Montrachet

Nantucketers and Frenchmen alike know the pleasure of the table well, as each community makes gastronomy an integral part of its identity.  And where goes great food, so goes great wine (and those that love them), as any visitor to either place would surely attest.

To share those pleasures of the table together, this Jumelage featured a wonderful event showcasing both Nantucket and Burgundian culinary talent.  La Paulee, as it’s called, is a communal festive meal typically held at the end of a grape harvest, an event to share and enjoy as one.  This special night left the appetizers to the chefs of Nantucket, and the main course to the Frenchmen, all under one roof, in one kitchen.  Representing Nantucket were Seth Raynor (Boarding House/Pearl/Corazon), Tom Berry (Great Harbor Yacht Club) and Scott Osif (The Galley).  All three chefs had just been in NYC preparing the Nantucket James Beard Dinner, to much acclaim, before skipping over the pond in time for the Jumelage.  Judging by the huge positive response to Seth’s green sauce for the oysters, for one, everyone was glad they made it.  La Paulee était une grande succès!

The inaugural Jumelage on Nantucket in 2006 was attended by visiting dignitaries of the wine world from Beaune, so in 2011 it was Nantucket’s turn to travel (Jumelage 2016 will be on Nantucket once again).  But that doesn’t mean either group waits five years to venture abroad (thankfully!).  The world famous annual wine auction, the Hospices de Beaune, took place in the third week of November.  Here 40 vineyards presented barrels for auction, and one-of-a-kind wines were sold to the highest bidder.  This auction featured a delightful 2009 vintage carrying the auspicious label “Les Amis de Nantucket”, and friends from Nantucket indeed bought a barrel together.  Only in the past 5 years have non-trade or civilians been invited to the auction – this was a great chance to experience the historic event.  Now at the coming NWF in May, the Mayor of Beaune will present a seminar on how to buy wine at this famous auction.  This will be a treat for those lucky to attend the seminar, and an inside look into a fascinating world.

Finally (most thought, “sadly”), the 2011 Jumelage celebration came to a close at an 11th century abbey, located on the pilgrims’ trail amidst rolling hills and ancient stones.  After a vigorous week of meals, touring Burgundy and toasting the twin towns, the time arrived for a final farewell luncheon.

It was idyllic.

Many Nantucketers stayed to savor the experience one last time together, some even spending the night on the grounds.  Welsh ponies grazed upon grass, as so many gastronomic pilgrims marched up the hill to the abbey.  Toner had arranged a special treat for those hardy travelers who came so far, and stayed to the end.  Compte Philippe Senard, proprietor of Domain Compte Senard of Aloxe-Corton and the Hill of Corton, was on hand to dispense awards to all in attendance (legend has it Emperor Charlemagne granted the lands on the Hill of Corton in 775 for the planting of vines).  The aptly named award of “Chevalier de Jumelage de Nantucket et Beaune” was bestowed upon each attendee, coming up in turn at the call of their name.  This “knighting” brought tears to many eyes, as the warmth of the experience, the very magic of this Jumelage, poured forth in a well of emotion.

The Jumelage may only happen every 5 years, but for many people from these two towns, the pride of home, community and ascetic pleasure is always with them.  It’s the ephemeral beauty and spirit, an overwhelming pride and joy in each person, that reminds us we’re alive, we’re doing fine, and whether it’s in the heart of Burgundy, or the warm open spaces of Nantucket, we’re home.

And that’s exactly where we want to be, wherever we are.

coming home

on the way to 'Sconset

Another reason is undeniable, and that is the magical experiences that come of bringing so much together.  The Luncheon Symposia program, started in 2008, was created to offer just such an opportunity to relish intimacy, beauty and quality in welcoming places.

The Burgundy Roundtable 2011 aced it.

Set within the heavenly confines of the Nantucket Golf Club, with a staff so gracious they reaffirm one’s belief in the goodness of humanity, it was a perfect afternoon in one of the most beautiful corners of the world.

Alex Gambal Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 'La Maltroie' 2009

It was an ethereal event, like a misty morning, or the contents of a good bottle of Burgundy.  One can’t possess it, but rather it must possess you, like the company of good friends, or the swing of a 6-iron to three feet.  It’s a momentary pleasure meant to be enjoyed in the present, with the promise of someday returning to such a special place in time.

Add to it the highly talented and extremely approachable panel of Burgundian winemakers, and no guest of this affair was left wanting.  It’s true the panel was preaching to the faithful, as familiar faces from year’s past filled finely set tables in anticipation of the glorious wines and top-notch fare.  And why not?  If you love Burgundy, this was the only place you could be today.

NGC House Manager Tom Bresette

NGC House Manager Tom Bresette elegantly set the scene, welcoming winemakers and guests alike as if they were old friends (and many of them are to Tom B.), while the French themselves saw familiar faces, if far from home.  It’s a family affair of sorts, certainly within the wineries as generations take over from forefathers, but also between the producers too.  Everyone knows each other in Burgundy, just as on Nantucket the regular crowd will always find so many familiar faces and friends to enjoy.  It’s one of the pleasures of small places; the chance to truly know one’s community can be elusive.  But not on Nantucket, or in Burgundy, or even during the short span of the Burgundy Roundtable.

Denis Toner, Laurent Drouhin

The winemakers were quick to reach the point.  “It’s in the glass”, said Laurent Drouhin, as the panel settled in.  Panelists included Michael Ragg (Owner, Michief and Mayhem), Jean-Charles Thomas (Head Winemaker, Maison Louis Latour),

Michael Ragg, Fiona Ragg, Laurent Drouhin, Francine Picard, Geraldine Godot, Cara Schwindt, Jean-Charles Thomas (l to r)

Geraldine Godot (Winemaker, Alex Gambal), Francine Picard (Owner, Michel Picard), and Laurent Drouhin (Maison Joseph Drouhin).  The event was moderated by the charming and talented Cara Schwindt (Sommeliere and Wine Director at Stein Eriksen Lodge in Deer Valley, Utah).

The luncheon commenced with a wine-tasting; each winemaker discussed their chosen vintage as the wines were poured, and the adjectives were unleashed.  Francine Picard lead with her Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru les Chaulmaux 2006, upon which she waxed poetic:  “Puligny comes from next to Chassagne, near Meursault, and is harvested up on a hill.  It’s a smooth vintage with nice richness, and a good amount of acidity but not too much.”

Puligny-Montrachet, Michel Picard

She spoke of her family history, which began in Burgundy in 1951 and has been carefully cultivated ever since.  “As soon as you take care of your land, your wine will follow…”, she offered, and confirmed what the audience already knew.  “This Puligny is enjoyable right now, and will be for many years”.

Michael Ragg spoke next of his Mischief and Mayhem,

Michael Ragg, Mischief and Mayhem

noting his move to Burgundy in March of 2003, and of the great year 2007 for white wine in Burgundy.  “I’m a newcomer to the region, but have been welcomed warmly, and enjoy sharing my wines.  This Puligny is rich without being heavy, and the grapes come from a parcel exactly on the level of Le Montrachet, just across a 3 meter wide road,” he said (Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Caillerets 2007).

Geraldine Godot (Winemaker, Alex Gambal) chose Chorey Les Beaune 2009, showing off a red Village wine that is a “new wine, with a black currant nose, soft tannins, and a good price too.”  And Jean-Charles Thomas (Head Winemaker, Maison Louis Latour) then offered his Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2005, a beautiful supple Grand Cru white, coming from “white clay and chalk soil, barrel-aged in oak barrels we make ourselves at our cooperage from hand-selected staves stored outside for 3 years, then toasted to instill a smooth smoky flavor to the wine.”  He spoke about Latour starting “two centuries ago in Burgundy, and now Domaine Latour has 108 acres, with 40+ acres being Grand Cru level.”

All of the winemakers shared such obvious love for their wines, their origins, their Burgundy.  It was the elegant Laurent Drouhin who captured the magic in words, while pouring something equally compelling in the glasses.

Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche 2005 (Maison Drouhin)

“I chose something unique today, and a famous wine of Burgundy, Le Montrachet.  My family is the exclusive winemaker of grapes coming from 25% of the plot of Le Montrachet, where the history dates back to 1363 and the lands of the Laguiche family.”  Laurent continued, “this wine is a masterpiece, and the best dry white wine in the world.  This 2005 vintage is deep, intense, complex.  It’s true.”

“Now,” Laurent said softly as he closed his eyes and raised his glass, “enter religion.”  He rejoiced in an well-tested theory, “when you drink Montrachet, it’s an experience, or, as my daughter would say, OMG!”  And in further explaining, he perhaps was also describing the afternoon:  “sensation and pleasure are all that matters… in the case of Burgundy, it comes from the terroir.”

Denis Toner, Mark Donato

What is pleasure?   Today it was sharing a mutual passion, on different levels, with a common if temporary bond.  It’s fun to experience it together.

Francine Picard, Laurent Drouhin

After four generations of the Drouhin family producing Burgundy wines, Laurent knows his way through the vineyard.  Several years ago at Maison Drouhin in Beaune, France, Laurent spoke of his youth.  “I was raised in the barrels,” and literally he meant it, as he showed off the playroom of his early years with his siblings, the caves and empty casks below the estate.  “Burgundy is the best of white wine.  In Burgundy we produce ‘terroir wine,’ not ‘chardonnay’ or ‘pinot noir’ but a wine of the place, soil, climate, all of it.”

wine-tasting

Francine Picard chimed in, concurring:  “Weather is the key – it differs from village to villlage.  It varies so much.  What nature gives us is variety.”  She added, “we’re diverse, instead of being one big brand like Bordeaux.”

Laurent shared more of his thoughts on the core of Burgundy.  “Each one is so different, that’s the beauty of it.  Terroir is part of it, the people are part of it too.”  And as if to dig deeper at an elemental, if perhaps under-appreciated, truth, he said “Burgundy wines are not technical wines; these are wines with a soul.”  The French at the panel have spent their entire lives cultivating this liquid soul, and the guests in the room hummed with understanding.  Laurent swirled the Montrachet in his glass, examining its body and color, saying, “the mood of the wines changes with the weather, and that’s what it’s all about in Burgundy.”

“It’s about the diversity, never forget the diversity;  the people are there to serve the diversity,” he paused thoughtfully, “and this is Burgundy wine.”

guests at the Burgundy Roundtable 2011

With that kernel of truth to hold on to, the guests turned their attention to their tables.  Courses were served, with well-tuned pairings of wines and winemakers.  The French winemakers in the room, responsible for the wines in the glasses, only enhanced the experience.  And that was the point.  Everyone shared the enjoyment together.   The fare included an extremely well-received Short Rib Bourguignon.  It may have been this course, or perhaps the one outside the window glowing in the soft spring light, that caused Laurent to speculate: “One day when the fifth generation takes over in the Drouhin family, I’d like to come back right here to Nantucket to retire and play golf.”  From one community to another, it’d be a most welcome addition.

Maison Jos.Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouges 2006

It is well worth acknowledging the excellence of the kitchen staff at the Nantucket Golf Club, who despite the club not reaching its peak season yet, were today at the peak of their game during lunch (Chef Steven Polowy, his staff, and House Manager Tom Bresette.  See Chef Polowy’s full menu, below).  Breaking par is one tough task on these links, but not today in the dining room.  It was all aces.

NGC dining room and kitchen team, Chef Steven Polowy, & House Manager Tom Bresette (far right)

Menu for the Burgundy Roundtable 2011, by Chef Steven Polowy of NGC

Amuse

Carmelized Sea Scallop

Garlic Parsley Butter Escargot Ragout

First Course

Tarragon Salmon Fallot Mustard Sauce

Petit Frisee Bacon & Chive Salad, Creme Fraiche Potato

Alex Gambal Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Moltroie’ 2009

Second Course

Short Rib Bourguignon

Pappardelle Egg Noodles, Cipollini Onions & Truffled Chanterelle Sauce

Louis Latour Corton ‘Clos du Roi’ Grand Cru 2009

Domaine Michel Picard Chassagne-Montrachet ‘Les Chaumes’ 2005

Cheeses

Selection of Artisan Cheeses

Fresh Bijou, Bonne Bouche, Coupole Goat Cheeses & Comte

Maison Joseph Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 2006

Mischief and Mayhem Corton Grand Cru Les Chaumes 2006

Tom Bresette, Mark Marquis Donato, Denis Toner, Randy Berry

2012 Continental GT, Bentley

With the 2012 Bentley Continental GT parked out front (of which 3 have already been sold this week, for those needing 500+ horse power), the annual Saturday night Wine Auction Dinner always seeks to impress.  This year was no exception.

But perhaps most impressive of all was the substance surrounding the evening, instead of merely glitz, glamor and impressive auction lots to bid upon.

Tim Mondavi, Denis Toner (holding Gifford Cup)

This year’s honoree is the soft-spoken and widely-accomplished Tim Mondavi, the NFW Luminary of the Year for 2011.  Tim received the esteemed Gifford Cup, named after Bud Gifford, who NWF founder Denis Toner described as “the man who first made wine a serious endeavor on Nantucket”.  Past honorees are Jorge Ordonez, Ray Coursen (present at tonight’s event), and Ming Tsai.

The Gifford Cup plaque

The evening began with a screening of a 4 minute trailer from Rick Burns’ documentary “Nantucket”, which has been commissioned by the NHA.

"Nantucket" by Rick Burns

The full film will premier on July 2, 2011 at Children’s Beach in a free screening for the public, then will air at the NHA’s beautiful Whaling Museum twice daily for at least the rest of the summer.  Don’t miss it.  Rick Burns is a pro and an amazing story-teller, and his treatment of a precious subject will garner attention, scrutiny and ultimately praise for getting at the core of what so many love.  Nantucket is an ever-evolving place, ephemeral and fragile, that changes with the times and the people present on her shores.  It’s the experiences you have that count, while they last.

After the screening, Denis Toner called Tim Mondavi front and center to be recognized as the 2011 Luminary of the Year.

Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi, Denis Toner

The award is presented to “an individual whose work has had a profound effect upon the landscape of food and wine”, and Denis called Tim a deserving honoree for “his unparalleled contributions to the world of wine, both in America and abroad, through his devotion to quality wine-making for decades.”

Tim Mondavi

Tim Mondavi has for years made wines in the tradition of his father Robert, and recently started his own new solo endeavor called “Continuum Estate” in Napa.  In accepting his award, Tim said “Nantucket your hospitality is amazing and warm, even the heavens opened up and welcomed us with warm days and sunny skies”.  He thanked his gracious hosts for showing him “the best aspects of Nantucket”, and he thanked Denis for the invitation to attend.  Tim concluded with,  “We love being here, thank you Nantucket Wine Festival, and thank you Nantucket!”  He extended an invitation at-large to the room to visit Continuum Estate where “we have a westerly exposure, red rocky soil, and some very good wine.  It’s a beautiful spot, please come out and visit.”

But if Tim was perhaps too humble to mention his role in the world of wine himself, his impressive daughter Carissa helped put things in perspective.  “My father was responsible for Robert Mondavi wines for 30 years, responsible for the reserve wines, for the Opus line, for the overseas ventures, and behind the wine-making in our family for so long,” she said.

Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Denis Toner

Carissa continued:  “He has worked so hard for so long, and has always been quietly in the shadows while making the best wines our family has to offer.  Now we’ve just shown our 4th vintage this year at Continuum, where we have one wine at one estate.  It’s our effort to continue the family tradition; it’s our own new endeavor where we’re taking things to the next level.”

And showing the same grace and appreciation so wonderfully exemplified by her father, Carissa Mondavi concluded by saying “It’s a huge honor for us to be here with you tonight on Nantucket, at the wine festival we already love so much.  It’s incredible that you are recognizing our new fledgling estate, our next evolution of Tim Mondavi’s wine-making at Continuum, and all that my father has done before.  We’re humbled.  Thank you, Nantucket.”  As the family tradition continues through the generations, the best qualities seem to have survived from Robert to Tim and on to Carissa.

The night was a grand affair, with wonderful lots bid on and purchased by happy auction-goers.

Auctioneer Jamie Ritchie, Sotheby's

The event was expertly guided by Jamie Ritchie, CEO and President of Sotheby’s Wine (Americas and Asia), who with assertive style and skill pulled in bids on lots ranging from a St. Bart’s retreat, to dinner at the Oldest House on Nantucket.  A trip to Beaune to Denis Toner’s estate in Burgundy went for $15,000.

Lot 10: trip to Beaune

Dinner was expertly prepared by Brooke Vosika (Executive Chef, Four Seasons Hotel Boston) and Fred Bisaillon (Executive Chef, Brandt Point Grill Nantucket), full menu below.  And wines were provided by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, and Newton Vineyards all night long.

Lowell Herrero print

Proceeds of the auction go directly to the Nantucket Historical Association, and the evening raised $140,000 in total.  NHA Executive Director Bill Tramposh said, “We’re proud of Rick Burns’ film on Nantucket, and we’re very very grateful to Denis and the wine festival for their generous donation from tonight’s auction.”

There was a lot of love and respect at the 2011 Auction Dinner, and a lot of money raised for a worthy cause.  People displayed an appreciation for Nantucket and her history, for the heritage of wine and one of its stewards in Tim Mondavi, and for new beginnings in our evolving world.  In short, it was an evening of substance all around.

Denis Toner, chef Brooke Vosika, Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi

Continuum Estate:  www.continuumestate.com

Nantucket Historical Association:  www.nha.org

NHA

Menu:

Wines:  Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Newton Vineyards

Veuve Clicquot

Reception:  Forbidden Rice Cake, BBQ Eel Avocado, Scallop Ceviche, Pepper Relish Deviled Egg, Bacon & Potato Chips, Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Champagne

Dinner:

Tomato Elixir, Balsamic “Rain” Lobster Salad, Cauliflower Cous Cous, Crisp Sprout Leaves, Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay 2007

Braised Short Rib of Beef, Tallegio Ravioli, Crispy Pork Ears, English Peas, Toasted Horseradish & Truffle Jus, Newton Unfiltered Merlot 2006

Ginger & Strawberry “Float”, Pistachio Macaroon, Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec

Chocolate

Brooke Vosika, Executive Chef, Fours Seasons Hotel Boston

Fred Bisaillon, Executive Chef, Brandt Point Grill Nantucket

Tim Mondavi, Dominique Demarville (Veuve Clicquot)

Nantucket Wine Festival:  On May 18-22, 2011 it’s the 15^th annual Nantucket Wine Festival.  Can you believe it??

Denis Toner, Founder of Nantucket Wine Festival:  I’m both surprised and have a sense of wonder that we’ve made it so far.  I can hardly believe it, really.   But what comes of it is a chance to make people happy, to promote Nantucket, and to do something good for the community.   Now that is something I feel good about, and something I’m very proud that we’ve accomplished.

I say “we” because you have to understand it’s a team effort.  Without dozens and dozens of people working extremely hard at this, the festival wouldn’t have evolved as it has, and it wouldn’t be so very special.  For that I am grateful, for the team.  Plus it’s a whole lot of fun to do things together, there’s a shared sense of satisfaction that wouldn’t exist otherwise.

Denis and Susan Toner

The early years were really something.  We’d make mistakes and take wine to the wrong place, or double-book someone in two places.  But we always had a sense of fun about it, and everyone just rolled with the punches.  We still maintain that sensibility today, and it comes through in the feeling of the festival.  People come here to enjoy themselves, and they do.

One consistency throughout the years has been the support we’ve received, from both the Nantucket community, and the wine community at large.  We’ve always had tremendous encouragement from those areas, and that has meant a lot to me.

In the past, there wasn’t a lot happening on Nantucket before Memorial Day weekend, it was quite dead.  Now the community comes alive in May, all the restaurants open up, there’s a lot of business happening, with people everywhere.  It’s now one of the busiest weekends of the year.  That’s a great result.

NWF:  You have selected the 4^th recipient for Luminary of the Year.  Who and why?

Tim Mondavi, Continuum Estate

Denis:  The Mondavi family is one of the great families of the wine world.  Truly world-renowned, and deservedly so, they are the royalty of American wine.  Now they are on to another generation with Carissa Mondavi working with her dad Tim, just as Tim worked with his father Robert before that.  Tim Mondavi is our choice for Luminary of the Year, our 4^th such recipient.  We present the award to “an individual whose work has had a profound effect upon the landscape of food and wine”, and that describes Tim quite well.  His new project is called “Continuum Estate”, where Tim continues the family tradition of making amazing wines.

Tim Mondavi, Mark Donato, Carissa Mondavi

Like Nantucket, it’s about continuity and history.  Continuum is back to the future, in a sense.  Back to being hyper-focused on quality, just like his father proselytized early on.  I’m thrilled to have Tim Mondavi as this year’s honoree, and I think he’s also happy to attend.

NWF:  Some wonderful events are part of the festival.   Describe The Grand Tasting, one of the largest events at NWF.

Denis:  The Grand Tasting has evolved for us.  This year we’ve made it by invitation only, for the presenters.  I want to make it about quality, and make this the Masters of Wine, the premium, the top.  So we’ve limited the presenters, and in doing so, have been able to take the quality up to another level.  This is the highest quality yet.

Grand Tasting, Nantucket Yacht Club

There will be 200 wineries at the Nantucket Yacht Club over the festival weekend, along with all the amazing purveyors of food.  It’s a gastronomic delight, really.  The amazing thing is, it’s still only 200 presenters, so you can carry on conversations with people, and learn directly from the winemakers, particularly with the amount of time you have on hand. We have the highest concentration of principals and winemakers of any event I know.  There’ll be over 50 at the Grand Tasting alone, and that’s quite a ratio of principals to presenters.

NWF:  At the other end of the spectrum there’s “Great Wines in Grand Houses”, offering an intimacy not found at many wine festivals.

Denis:  This is a unique and amazing program, and I’m very proud of it.  It’s not everywhere that homeowners will open their magnificent homes for something like this.  But Nantucketers do, and with typical style and gusto.  There are 2 options; the first is a wine tasting in a grand domicile, with principals from the estates pouring the wines, and approximately 15 guests tasting their amazing vintages.  The other option is very intimate, and that’s the five dinners at five amazing Nantucket homes.

A grand Nantucket home

These are wonderful evenings, with no holds barred.  These dinners put the “grand” in it, and people are always impressed.  There are visiting chefs from all over the country to prepare the dinners, and this year we’ll have 12 winemakers from St. Emilion involved to pour their beautiful Bordeaux wines.  I’ve witnessed several lifelong friendships develop from these dinners; it’s wonderful to see.

NWF:  There’s a special event involving the Bordeaux region of St. Emilion this year.  Tell us about it.

Denis:  Well we’ve got something truly special lined up this year.  It’s the “St. Emilion 1^st Growths Tasting & Luncheon” at the Great Harbor Yacht Club (May 21, 11a).  In St. Emilion there’s a hierarchy of wine.  We have 12 of the top 15 estates attending this luncheon, with acclaimed executive chef Tom Berry of the Great Harbor Yacht Club preparing the meal.  This is an historic event; I’ve never heard of that many principals from St. Emilion attending one event!  It’s a big deal, and we couldn’t be happier about it.  They’ll pour the 2008 vintage first, and then with the meal, the 2007 vintage will be offered.  If you’re not fortunate enough to be attending, you will hear about this one I assure you.  It’s that good!

NWF:  At special events are special people.  One such person is John Kolasa of Chateau Canon and Chateau Rauzan Segla.

Denis:  John is responsible for arranging the St. Emilion lunch, so thank you John for that.  He’s an impressive figure in the world of wine, just ask anyone and they’ll tell you about what he has achieved.

John Kolasa

He’s the GM of Chateau Canon and Chateau Rauzan Segla, two wonderful estates in Bordeaux.  The Chanel family owns these estates, and on the Chanel board sits Nantucketer Arie Kopelman, so we have a strong connection there.  John Kolasa is an alpha-male of the wine world, and justifiably so.  We’re thrilled to have him at the festival this year.

NWF:  A deeply missed champion of Bordeaux sadly passed away in August 2010, that’s Thierry Manoncourt of Chateau Figeac.  You spent the day with him at Chateau Figeac; describe that lunch and day, and the passion that still poured out of Thierry.

Denis:  Yes I am sad to even think about this.  Thierry was such an impressive person.  I was very fortunate in that I spent the day with him at Chateau Figeac a few years ago, where he hosted a lunch for us.  Thierry was the consummate host; he also shared with us some highly personal matters.  He recalled meeting Jacques Chevignard, a lion of Burgundy and esteemed member of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin in service to Burgundy.  He met Jacques at Buchenwald concentration camp where they were both interred during the war, and became fast and lifelong friends.  Thierry spoke of the terror of those times, but also was able to find the silver lining in that he made a good friend that he would know for many years hence.  Both men have since passed away, and we have lost two champions of France, and two great men.

Thierry Manoncourt

Thierry had such a passion for wine and family, and I was able experience both that day at Chateau Figeac.  We dined with the whole family, even seeing family photo albums while we heard personal stories all afternoon.  I witnessed his passion, the proud patriarch where he most enjoyed spending time, at the table in his home with his family around him.

Chateau Figeac

The wine world misses Thierry Manoncourt, we all do.  I’m happy to say his son-in-law Comte Eric D’Aramon, the GM of Chateau Figeac, will be in attendance at our festival this year.

NWF:  Locals from Nantucket are also a big part of the festival.  One example is chef-owner All Kovalencik, although of course there are many.

Denis:  All has been with the festival for all 15 years, and is always there serving his famous salmon.  It’s divine, and the event wouldn’t be the same without it, or him.  He along with his amazing wife Andrea own the acclaimed Company of the Cauldron, which is consistently recognized as one of the best restaurants in the country, let alone Nantucket.  I’m so happy he continues to be such an important part of the festival, like so many other locals.  The local community is a big deal for me, and the festival.

Angela Raynor, with Denis

There is tremendous culinary talent on Nantucket.  The list is long, and includes the Raynors, the Silvas, Michael Lascola, Alan Cuhna; so many great restauranteurs on our little island, it’s just incredible and impossible to name them all.  I think part of it has to do with the history of the island.  Back when I was the sommelier at the Chanticleer in ‘Sconset, I saw generations of diners returning year after year after year.  With the great food, there was always the great wine on the table, and fathers passed to sons and daughters an appreciation of both.  So the tradition of great food and wine is deeply instilled in the Nantucket community, and is part of why the island has maintained such high standards over the years.

NWF:  Do you enjoy the festival as much now as you did 15 years ago?

Denis and NWF friends in France

Denis:  You know I do, I really do.  It’s a labor of love, because it’s a lot of work.  And there’s a huge team of dedicated people responsible for why the Nantucket Wine Festival both survives, and thrives.  I suppose that’s one of the elements I enjoy so much – the teamwork, the camaraderie, the real joie de vivre of the people involved.  There’s both an esprit de corps about it, and a passion I have rarely witnessed in other fields.  Wine and food people work hard and play hard, and that has always made what I do a real pleasure.  I still feel the energy of it all, and get a lift from the festival every year.  And I am so happy to promote and support the island of Nantucket.  This is what I love to do, and I am lucky to be able to do it.

NWF:  Thank you Denis, we all look forward to the next 15 years.  Congratulations on your success.

Denis:  No, thank you, and please congratulate the whole team for the success of the festival, it’s a family affair, and we have a big family!

NWF:  You’re a good man Denis, and congratulations to the whole team on the 15^th anniversary of the Nantucket Wine Festival.

Denis at Clos Vougeot, Burgundy

Veuve Clicquot champagne

But another powerful woman must be considered.  And that’s the Widow Clicquot (“veuve” means widow en francaise).  When the eponymous patriarch behind Domaine Clicquot died, it could have been the end of one of France’s finest exports.  But lucky for the world, his widow channeled her grief into the champagne business, and the rest is, as they say, history.

Judging by the quality of her wines, she knew a thing or two about mourning.  They’re just too good, and are rightfully regarded as the pinnacle of the champagne world.

La Grande Dame, 1998

Queen Elizabeth II herself favors a glass or two, as Veuve Clicquot holds a royal warrant issued by Her Majesty, indicating they are the official champagne provider to the royal family.  In 2010, Veuve Clicquot champagne is also celebrating 200 years since Widow Clicquot made her first vintage, as if we need another reason to celebrate after opening one of these fine bottles.  It’s the gold standard, and the raison d’etre for champagne drinkers the world over.

The Veuve Clicquot brunch at the Nantucket Wine Festival (May 2010) was an elegant affair, with the epitome of gracious hosts in Dorothy Slover and Doug Kenward.

Brunch hosted by Dorothy Slover and Doug Kenward

They opened their beautiful home once again to the bubbly faithful, and to the Chef de Caves from Champagne Veuve Clicquot, Dominique Demarville.  As Cellar Master, Dominique knows a thing or two about champagne, very very good champagne.  He didn’t disappoint, and neither did his effervescent wares.

Dominique Demarville, Chef de Caves, Veuve Clicquot

The wines were spectacular, and the table set for 22 could not have been more precise.  Dorothy knows warm hospitality like Dominique knows champagne; add a wonderfully talented chef into the mix in E.J. Harvey (SeaGrille), and you need a seat belt to keep pace with this brunch affair.

Chef E.J. Harvey of SeaGrille, Nantucket

The first course was seared diver scallop, orange and carrot juice gastrique, with pancetta parmesan crisp.  It was paired with La Grande Dame 1998.  The pairing worked beautifully, and the champagne flowed to a happy brunch crowd.  Things were under way, and the hostess Grande Dame Dorothy herself asked Dominique “Why can’t we do this every day?”  Dominique, without skipping a beat, replied, “I do.”  C’est la vie.

La Grande Dame 1998, Veuve Clicquot

The next course was poached lobster with asparagus, Vermont goat cheese timbale, thyme and chive butter.  Dominique paired it with Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2002 Rose, and this was certainly a crowd-pleaser, with repeated requests for more Rose.  So, more was poured.  This champagne was sublime, and at 8 years in the bottle, was beginning to move from fruity to a more nutty quality, with hints of deeper complexity coming through.  One could still appreciate the cherry and vanilla undertones, but it was the aniseed and elegance that most pleased on further inspection.  It’s a very good wine.  At Dorothy’s brunch table, one could imagine never getting up, and then darkness falls, with Rose still being served.  Would it be any other way.

For the third course, Chef Harvey offered seared veal tenderloin, with Vermont morels, fiddleheads, roasted tomato cream, and grain mustard spaetzle.  Wow.

Seared veal tenderloin, on a bed of grain mustard spaetzle

It’s worth noting, the plates themselves were works of art, and only accentuated the experience of tasting the food placed upon those colorful circles of ceramic delight.  Atmosphere comes from expectation, flavor, company and temperament.  Oh, and great wine.  This pairing was Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage 1988 Blanc.  Rare, indeed.  Here one found a complex wine with strong aromas of dried fruit and flowers.  It was noticeably elegant, and dissolved into the ether on the tongue, as any good champagne will do.  But this one sets itself apart by its wonderful lasting finish, crisp at the start, elegant to close with notes of brioche following the earlier fruit.  Sublime.  Wonderful.  This is the benchmark by which all sparkling wines measure themselves, and rightfully so.  It is champagne as it was intended, for an appreciative audience.

Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec

Dessert (wasn’t that in the flutes the whole time?) was petite pavlova, lemon curd creme fraiche, fresh berries and mint.  Dominique opened Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec to pair, and it was a match made in heaven.  This wine was both round and easy-going in the mouth, with evidence of currants, citrus and other fruity flavor notes.  It was nice with the dessert, and closed perfectly.

Naturally, champagne this good doesn’t get poured at every brunch, so plenty of folks circled back to their favorite wines after dessert, and Dominique and Dorothy delivered.  No palate was left unsatiated.  People were happy, stomachs were full, glasses were filled and emptied and filled again.  There was much conversation, and laughter.

A brunch like this seemingly only appears every great while, like Brigadoon from the mist, or a Sunday at Dorothy and Doug’s during the Nantucket Wine Festival.  Fortunately it’s only 364 days until it reappears, and there’s at least 22 people that will clamor for the chance to experience this ethereal elegance once again.

Veuve Clicquot for brunch

For the rest of the time, there’s Veuve Clicquot.

Happy dreaming, may you have bubbles with your brunch, and may you always wake up in Brigadoon.

(NWF note:  thanks to E.J. Harvey and his tremendous kitchen staff for a spectacular culinary display, and thank you to hosts Doug Kenward and Dorothy Slover for such warm and generous hospitality.  Dorothy, you are a true Grande Dame, like the best Veuve Clicquot champagne!)

Chef E.J. Harvey and his SeaGrille staff get much deserved recognition

Frank Neer, Denis Toner, Coach Bill Belichick, Linda Holliday, Mark Donato

Here are some other guests at this year’s festival, and by all measures, it was a wonderful event.

Chef Ming Tsia was recognized as the NWF Luminary of the Year 2010, and attended several dinners and other events during the weekend, including the Wine Auction Dinner.

Denis Toner, Ming Tsai

Wines were provided at the auction by Jorge Ordonez, winner of the 2008 and inaugural Luminary of the Year Award.  Jorge provided amazing wines from Spain, and hosted several incredible events himself.

Jorge Ordonez

Also attending the auction dinner was Ray Coursen, winner of the 2009 Luminary of the Year Award, and an all-around amazing winemaker from Napa.

Dozens of other wineries from around the world were in attendance, as well as numerous chefs representing some of the finest restaurants in the world.

Cesare Casella

Cesare Casella came in from NYC, where he owns Salumeria Rosi (he brought his amazing salumi, and his homemade parmigiano).  Todd English was on hand, and he is now partnering with The Summer House and Figs at 29 Fair in their Nantucket endeavors.

Robert Sinskey

There was a strong showing of wineries from California, including Alis Arrowood of Arrowood Winery, Jack Bittner representing Cliff Lede Vineyards, Ray Coursen of Elyse Winery, David and Jasmine Hirsch from Hirsch Winery, Rob and Maria Sinskey of Robert Sinskey Vineyards, Carissa Mondavi of Robert Mondavi Winery, and Jeff Bundschu of Gundlach Bundschu Winery in Napa.

Hugh and Pat Tietjen

Hugh Tietjen was also in from Napa, where he is publisher of some of the leading trade magazines in the wine industry, including “Wines and Vines” and “Wine Business Monthly”.

Laurent Drouhin, Maison Joseph Drouhin

From France we saw Dominique Demarville, Chef de Caves of Veuve Clicquot Champagne, Laurent Drouhin of Maison Joseph Drouhin, Michel Anglada and Martine Deleger of Domaine Anglada-Deleger, and Alex Gambal showing his impressive burgundies.

E.J. Harvey, SeaGrille

Local restauranteurs from Nantucket were out in force, including Michael Getter of Dune, Angela and Seth Raynor from The Pearl, The Boarding House and Corazon del Mar, Amanda Lydon and Gabriel Frasca of Straight Wharf, All Kovalencik of  The Company of the Cauldron, Peter and Wendy Jannelle from 56 Union, E.J. Harvey of SeaGrille, Michael Lascola from American Seasons, and Geoffrey and David Silva of Galley Beach.

Bill "Smitty" Smitrovich, Eileen McLemore

Also in attendance throughout the week was Bill “Smitty” Smitrovich, a wonderful and successful character actor who continues to get great roles.  He’ll soon appear in “The Rum Diaries” with Johnny Depp (focusing on the life of Hunter S. Thompson), as well as break-out television series called “The Event”, scheduled to be aired in September.

A new and beautiful guest may have been the most popular for some, although she never attended any of the events.  The new Panamera 4-door sedan by Porsche had everyone’s attention, like the most popular girl in the room.  Many people couldn’t stop talking about her, what a sight!

Panamera, by Porsche

Another very welcome guest at this year’s festival was the great weather, as locals and festival faithful alike know it’s not always perfect here in May.  Well, this week it was.  Thank you sunshine and warm days, everyone adored you this week, you made the event shine, and smiles come out in number.

wine in the sun

Please come again next year.

sunshine!

That goes for everyone else too.  Join us!!

See you then,

Nantucket Wine Festival

NWF's John Hayes and Mark Donato

The Grand Tasting

NWF founder Denis Toner, with 2010 Luminary of the Year Ming Tsai

The Nantucket Historical Association was also on hand, as the non-profit beneficiary of the Wine Auction Dinner.  Proceeds from the evening go to supporting NHA’s educational programs for children and their families, building on the success of the past 13 years of collaboration with the Nantucket Wine Festival.  It’s an important part of NWF’s mission to support non-profit causes and Nantucket, and NHA is a perfect partner in that regard.  This year the auction raised $123,900 for the NHA.

NWF had a chance to speak with Ming Tsai on the day he was recognized as Luminary of the Year:

Nantucket Wine Festival: Ming you are the Luminary of the Year 2010, how does it feel?

Chef Ming Tsai:  It’s a great honor to be recognized, and it means a lot really.  Lots of people get lots of awards, but there’s only 3 of these so far, and I’m proud to be a part of it (previous awards were given to Jorge Ordonez and Ray Coursen).

Jorge Ordonez

Plus, I am a big fan of this event, and the people it pulls together.  And who wouldn’t want another reason to come to Nantucket??

NWF: You have been to our festival for several years, what keeps you coming back?

Ming:  It’s one of the premiere wine events in the country!  Of the smaller events, it really is one of the very best.  If you have any doubt, just look at the list of attendees.  The wines are off the charts, but also notice the principal winemakers themselves appear in most cases.  That doesn’t always happen, but it does here.

Alex Gambal

So you get to meet them, enjoy their perspectives, and gain a new appreciation for their wines from the people responsible for what goes in the bottle.  That’s cool.  And the same goes for food.  Just look at who shows up:  this year you see Todd English, who happens to be involved in two restaurants on Nantucket now, as well as dozens of visiting chefs from around the nation.

Todd English

And the local chefs, off the charts.  Nantucket is a little oasis of quality, and so is the Nantucket Wine Festival.  I don’t plan on missing it anytime soon.  Do I get a green jacket in the locker room like the winners of the Masters??  Seriously, I appreciate the Gifford Cup they gave me, that’s really generous.  And it can hold a lot of wine.

NWF:  What do you have going on these days?

Ming: Well my 4th book is coming out, it’s “ONE-POT DISHES”, and it’s a lot of fun.  I think people will enjoy it, I know I enjoyed putting it together.  So watch for that.  I’ve also got another season of “Simply Ming” going on PBS (television series), and that has been tons of fun too.  It’s great to be able to reach more people and get them into food.  The feedback has been tremendous, so I’m thrilled to keep it going.  You can see little clips of the show on my website at www.ming.com, so check it out.

The Gifford Cup

NWF:  Ming I hear there’s another project in the works too, is that correct?

Ming: I can’t give up all the details, but I’m excited to say I have another big TV show coming soon. It’s BIG.  So you’ll just have to keep your eye on that, and you’ll see!

Denis and Ming

NWF:  Thanks Ming, and congratulations.

Ming:  Thank you, and I’m honored to be the Luminary of the Year.  Thanks Denis!