In October of 2011, there was a celebration of two towns with common ties. The Jumelage (or “twinning”) was again celebrated in recognition of the commonalities between Nantucket, and Beaune, France in the heart of Burgundy. An enthusiastic band of Nantucketers made the long journey to the Gold Coast, where Burgundy is born, and wine is cherished as a way of life. They were met by an equally hearty contingent of Frenchmen, all there to acknowledge a wonderful bond.
It was 2006 when the initial Jumelage occurred on Nantucket soil, after NWF founder Denis Toner realized the two places he loves most have a whole lot in common.
Jumelage 2006 plaque on India Street, Nantucket
“It’s apparent there’s a kinship between Nantucket and Beaune,” Toner said. “It’s undeniable once you experience both in person, from the cobblestones to the window boxes, the deep history to the love of gastronomy. There’s also an impulse for preservation in both places, this leads to preserving the inherent local identity, and that’s part of the kinship.”
Indeed, once in Beaune to celebrate the Jumelage, the ties became obvious to the nearly 50 Nantucketers making the trip, and “Now I get it” was a common refrain. Toner continued, “Beaune is one of the greenest cities in Europe, and there’s a certain pride in the townspeople. It’s a very walkable town, just like home. It even has fog.” Rhetorically he posed, “sound familiar??”
None of that was lost on the French, either. They rallied to the cause, and came out in force for the event. The entire Beaune city council was present, as was the Mayor who made a special trip back from Paris to join the festivities, which were centered around the historic Hotel de Ville. The Mayor, as an aside, noted America’s own automobile company Chevrolet hails from Beaune, where they had a small shop (rumor has it the famous “bowtie” logo of Chevrolet was inspired by wallpaper seen in a French hotel by a Chevy co-founder).
But this Jumelage recognizes much more, and that’s a celebration of a way of life.
Chevalier Montrachet
Nantucketers and Frenchmen alike know the pleasure of the table well, as each community makes gastronomy an integral part of its identity. And where goes great food, so goes great wine (and those that love them), as any visitor to either place would surely attest.
To share those pleasures of the table together, this Jumelage featured a wonderful event showcasing both Nantucket and Burgundian culinary talent. La Paulee, as it’s called, is a communal festive meal typically held at the end of a grape harvest, an event to share and enjoy as one. This special night left the appetizers to the chefs of Nantucket, and the main course to the Frenchmen, all under one roof, in one kitchen. Representing Nantucket were Seth Raynor (Boarding House/Pearl/Corazon), Tom Berry (Great Harbor Yacht Club) and Scott Osif (The Galley). All three chefs had just been in NYC preparing the Nantucket James Beard Dinner, to much acclaim, before skipping over the pond in time for the Jumelage. Judging by the huge positive response to Seth’s green sauce for the oysters, for one, everyone was glad they made it. La Paulee était une grande succès!
The inaugural Jumelage on Nantucket in 2006 was attended by visiting dignitaries of the wine world from Beaune, so in 2011 it was Nantucket’s turn to travel (Jumelage 2016 will be on Nantucket once again). But that doesn’t mean either group waits five years to venture abroad (thankfully!). The world famous annual wine auction, the Hospices de Beaune, took place in the third week of November. Here 40 vineyards presented barrels for auction, and one-of-a-kind wines were sold to the highest bidder. This auction featured a delightful 2009 vintage carrying the auspicious label “Les Amis de Nantucket”, and friends from Nantucket indeed bought a barrel together. Only in the past 5 years have non-trade or civilians been invited to the auction – this was a great chance to experience the historic event. Now at the coming NWF in May, the Mayor of Beaune will present a seminar on how to buy wine at this famous auction. This will be a treat for those lucky to attend the seminar, and an inside look into a fascinating world.
Finally (most thought, “sadly”), the 2011 Jumelage celebration came to a close at an 11th century abbey, located on the pilgrims’ trail amidst rolling hills and ancient stones. After a vigorous week of meals, touring Burgundy and toasting the twin towns, the time arrived for a final farewell luncheon.
It was idyllic.
Many Nantucketers stayed to savor the experience one last time together, some even spending the night on the grounds. Welsh ponies grazed upon grass, as so many gastronomic pilgrims marched up the hill to the abbey. Toner had arranged a special treat for those hardy travelers who came so far, and stayed to the end. Compte Philippe Senard, proprietor of Domain Compte Senard of Aloxe-Corton and the Hill of Corton, was on hand to dispense awards to all in attendance (legend has it Emperor Charlemagne granted the lands on the Hill of Corton in 775 for the planting of vines). The aptly named award of “Chevalier de Jumelage de Nantucket et Beaune” was bestowed upon each attendee, coming up in turn at the call of their name. This “knighting” brought tears to many eyes, as the warmth of the experience, the very magic of this Jumelage, poured forth in a well of emotion.
The Jumelage may only happen every 5 years, but for many people from these two towns, the pride of home, community and ascetic pleasure is always with them. It’s the ephemeral beauty and spirit, an overwhelming pride and joy in each person, that reminds us we’re alive, we’re doing fine, and whether it’s in the heart of Burgundy, or the warm open spaces of Nantucket, we’re home.
And that’s exactly where we want to be, wherever we are.
coming home
