NWF15 (2011) sat down with Mark Donato, the Marquis de ‘Sconset, lieutenant of the NWF, and right-hand man to Denis Toner, to discuss travels to Napa, visiting Tim Mondavi, skulls in European caverns, and Denis Toner himself.
From left: Tim Mondavi, Carissa Mondavi, Mark Donato
Nantucket Wine Festival: Mark, you toured Napa this winter, tell us about your trip.
Mark Donato, NWF lieutenant: Well I’ve been very lucky to be able to travel on behalf of the Nantucket Wine Festival, as an ambassador, extending invitations to winemakers to attend. This winter I was in Napa, and I experienced an optimism out there. As with most industries, the recession has also taken a toll on the business of wine, and the weather has been less than perfect in recent years. But this is being described as a “winemakers’ year”, by the winemakers themselves. They’re excited about the positive momentum they are witnessing, and also about the great vintage they feel they have on hand. I saw great enthusiasm and optimism, and it’s contagious. So it was a good time to be in Napa.
NWF: Is it all about wine in Napa?
Mark: Oh yes, Napa is all about wine. It’s the main industry, and clearly permeates the whole region. It’s America’s wine mecca, and that’s evident everywhere you go. Of course there is also the incredibly acclaimed food town of Yountville too, so they have the food and wine thing happening there. Several restaurants have achieved Michelin star ratings, and with good reason. The town of Napa itself is also on the rise in the food world, with new and acclaimed restaurants appearing there too.
So the marriage of food and wine is alive and well in Napa.
One thing I was hearing from the growers is a new focus on pinots. Napa is well known for cabernets, but there now seems to be a shift in emphasis over to pinot noirs, at least according to the growers. It’ll be interesting to see if this trend magnifies, and also how the latest Napa pinot vintages turn out.
NWF: You called on Tim Mondavi, the NWF Luminary of the Year for 2011. Tell us about that day.
From left: Mark Donato, Carissa Mondavi, Tim Mondavi, Elisabeth English
Mark: This was the highlight of my Napa trip without a doubt. I spent the day with Tim Mondavi, and his wonderful daughter Carissa, both of whom could not have been more welcoming or gracious. Continuum Estate sits up on a hill, so it’s a bit of a safari to get there. And well worth it. Tim took us into the fields in an ATV, and his passion for wine leapt out. He was down in the dirt picking up handfuls of soil, talking about its qualities and how it translates into the bottle. He exuded enthusiasm and passion, and it was great to see first-hand. Lunch was special too. Tim is truly a “gentle-man”, in the best sense of it. He’s a bit soft-spoken, kind, and carries a sort of hippie quality that seems to date back to earlier years. I mean this is the most complimentary way possible. He’s a pleasure to be around, and of course his wines speak for themselves.
NWF: There’s a special event at this year’s festival, the St. Emilion luncheon and tasting. You visited Bordeaux and St. Emilion a few years ago. Tell us about it.
Mark: I did visit Bordeaux and the town of St. Emilion, and one unforgettable experience was touring through the caverns underneath the city. It’s on old historic town in the middle of the right bank, with vineyards all around. Some of the wineries have entrances to the caverns below, and suddenly you find yourself walking under the city. I saw an old skull in there too, so there are plenty of untold stories I’m sure. It made quite an impression on me, and was mystical in its own way. I have such warm memories of St. Emilion. It’ll be a pleasure to see so many of their winemakers and principals at the festival this year.
NWF: This is the 15th NWF, and that’s 15 years of Denis Toner working his magic. How would you describe Denis to someone who has never met him?
Mark: Denis is magical, there’s no other way to describe him. He consistently creates magic around himself, without trying. He is well-spoken, and well-loved. He’s warm and inviting, incredibly inclusive no matter who you are. His intellect is off the charts. I don’t know how he does it. He never carries notes around, and can remember every phone number of every person he has ever met, I kid you not. I’ve seen it happen –how do we reach so-and-so? Denis just dials the number from memory and gets them on the line.
Denis Toner, Elisabeth English in Burgundy, France
This carries over internationally as well, as I’ve experienced in several countries. In making wine films in Italy, France, and Spain, despite language or cultural barriers, Denis always creates a jovial atmosphere, and engages the table or the room in a deeply connected way. I really don’t know how he does it, despite having seen it dozens of times. That’s just part of the magic of Denis, it’s part of who he is. People want to be a part of his world, to be around him. He’s a big reason why the Nantucket Wine Festival has achieved such status and success. Denis creates the magic, and it all stems from there. He has found his niche in this world, and is perfectly suited for what he is doing.
NWF: Thank you Mark, see you at the wine festival.
Mark: Thank you, see you there.
