A look at history reveals some incredible women in positions of power and influence. Long ago, there was Makeda, Queen of Sheba. Later came Queen Isabella II of Spain, and of course there’s Her Majesty the Queen, Elizabeth II, presiding over all of the English empire. Margaret Thatcher is well regarded, and Madeleine Albright holds her own. Oh Amelia Earhart, you flew into our hearts when you became the first woman to fly solo across the pond. Rosa Parks, your dignity and determination still inspire us. Madonna it’s hard not to notice you. Beyoncé, you command our attention. And Hillary, you’re rapidly ascending the power list of history too (might that be President Clinton II in 2016?). And oh yes, Mary Tudor, you knew a thing or two about power, dominance, and, well, brunch (forever the favorite of the morning recovery crowd, thank you Bloody Mary).
Veuve Clicquot champagne
But another powerful woman must be considered. And that’s the Widow Clicquot (“veuve” means widow en francaise). When the eponymous patriarch behind Domaine Clicquot died, it could have been the end of one of France’s finest exports. But lucky for the world, his widow channeled her grief into the champagne business, and the rest is, as they say, history.
Judging by the quality of her wines, she knew a thing or two about mourning. They’re just too good, and are rightfully regarded as the pinnacle of the champagne world.
La Grande Dame, 1998
Queen Elizabeth II herself favors a glass or two, as Veuve Clicquot holds a royal warrant issued by Her Majesty, indicating they are the official champagne provider to the royal family. In 2010, Veuve Clicquot champagne is also celebrating 200 years since Widow Clicquot made her first vintage, as if we need another reason to celebrate after opening one of these fine bottles. It’s the gold standard, and the raison d’etre for champagne drinkers the world over.
The Veuve Clicquot brunch at the Nantucket Wine Festival (May 2010) was an elegant affair, with the epitome of gracious hosts in Dorothy Slover and Doug Kenward.
Brunch hosted by Dorothy Slover and Doug Kenward
They opened their beautiful home once again to the bubbly faithful, and to the Chef de Caves from Champagne Veuve Clicquot, Dominique Demarville. As Cellar Master, Dominique knows a thing or two about champagne, very very good champagne. He didn’t disappoint, and neither did his effervescent wares.
Dominique Demarville, Chef de Caves, Veuve Clicquot
The wines were spectacular, and the table set for 22 could not have been more precise. Dorothy knows warm hospitality like Dominique knows champagne; add a wonderfully talented chef into the mix in E.J. Harvey (SeaGrille), and you need a seat belt to keep pace with this brunch affair.
Chef E.J. Harvey of SeaGrille, Nantucket
The first course was seared diver scallop, orange and carrot juice gastrique, with pancetta parmesan crisp. It was paired with La Grande Dame 1998. The pairing worked beautifully, and the champagne flowed to a happy brunch crowd. Things were under way, and the hostess Grande Dame Dorothy herself asked Dominique “Why can’t we do this every day?” Dominique, without skipping a beat, replied, “I do.” C’est la vie.
La Grande Dame 1998, Veuve Clicquot
The next course was poached lobster with asparagus, Vermont goat cheese timbale, thyme and chive butter. Dominique paired it with Veuve Clicquot Vintage 2002 Rose, and this was certainly a crowd-pleaser, with repeated requests for more Rose. So, more was poured. This champagne was sublime, and at 8 years in the bottle, was beginning to move from fruity to a more nutty quality, with hints of deeper complexity coming through. One could still appreciate the cherry and vanilla undertones, but it was the aniseed and elegance that most pleased on further inspection. It’s a very good wine. At Dorothy’s brunch table, one could imagine never getting up, and then darkness falls, with Rose still being served. Would it be any other way.
For the third course, Chef Harvey offered seared veal tenderloin, with Vermont morels, fiddleheads, roasted tomato cream, and grain mustard spaetzle. Wow.
Seared veal tenderloin, on a bed of grain mustard spaetzle
It’s worth noting, the plates themselves were works of art, and only accentuated the experience of tasting the food placed upon those colorful circles of ceramic delight. Atmosphere comes from expectation, flavor, company and temperament. Oh, and great wine. This pairing was Veuve Clicquot Rare Vintage 1988 Blanc. Rare, indeed. Here one found a complex wine with strong aromas of dried fruit and flowers. It was noticeably elegant, and dissolved into the ether on the tongue, as any good champagne will do. But this one sets itself apart by its wonderful lasting finish, crisp at the start, elegant to close with notes of brioche following the earlier fruit. Sublime. Wonderful. This is the benchmark by which all sparkling wines measure themselves, and rightfully so. It is champagne as it was intended, for an appreciative audience.
Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec
Dessert (wasn’t that in the flutes the whole time?) was petite pavlova, lemon curd creme fraiche, fresh berries and mint. Dominique opened Veuve Clicquot Demi Sec to pair, and it was a match made in heaven. This wine was both round and easy-going in the mouth, with evidence of currants, citrus and other fruity flavor notes. It was nice with the dessert, and closed perfectly.
Naturally, champagne this good doesn’t get poured at every brunch, so plenty of folks circled back to their favorite wines after dessert, and Dominique and Dorothy delivered. No palate was left unsatiated. People were happy, stomachs were full, glasses were filled and emptied and filled again. There was much conversation, and laughter.
A brunch like this seemingly only appears every great while, like Brigadoon from the mist, or a Sunday at Dorothy and Doug’s during the Nantucket Wine Festival. Fortunately it’s only 364 days until it reappears, and there’s at least 22 people that will clamor for the chance to experience this ethereal elegance once again.
Veuve Clicquot for brunch
For the rest of the time, there’s Veuve Clicquot.
Happy dreaming, may you have bubbles with your brunch, and may you always wake up in Brigadoon.
(NWF note: thanks to E.J. Harvey and his tremendous kitchen staff for a spectacular culinary display, and thank you to hosts Doug Kenward and Dorothy Slover for such warm and generous hospitality. Dorothy, you are a true Grande Dame, like the best Veuve Clicquot champagne!)
Chef E.J. Harvey and his SeaGrille staff get much deserved recognition
Dave, you did a great job….Nicely written.