It’s always amazing when a musician sits in with the band, never having performed with them, and they create beautiful seamless melodies. The same might be said of the chefs at a Boarding House dinner during this year’s Nantucket Wine Festival (NWF14, May 2010). Two impressive chefs brought their individual talents together in one kitchen, resulting in a menu menage for the ages.
Boarding House chef-de-cuisine Erin Zircher welcomed guest chef Maria Helm Sinskey into the kitchen,
Chefs Erin Zircher, Maria Helm Sinskey
and together they offered course after course of flavor, balance and harmonic goodness. The Boarding House main dining room was beautifully set for 45 eager dinner guests,
Angela Raynor, Boarding House owner
and Maria’s husband Rob Sinskey paired his organic Napa wines to complement each course as it flowed forth from the kitchen.
The night was an absolute delight, with occasional stories being interspersed by Rob and hostess Angela Raynor (owner, The Boarding House). If the flow of conversation is any indication, the night was a huge success as the vocal pitch seemed to crescendo as the night progressed. People were having a great time, and why not? The food and wine were excellent together, as were the setting, diners and two wonderfully talented chefs. Add Rob’s organically produced wines, and you have a masterpiece of an evening on hand.
scallop crudo with lovage and lime
The night started with a scallop ceviche that needed only lime to pair perfectly with Rob’s Vin Gris of Pinot Noir from the Carneros. The wine’s crisp strawberry and jasmine qualities, along with the acidity, were a fitting complement to the seafood introduction. Plus, it’s pink, and that gets people fired up like bubbles do at the beginning of an evening. The combination melted in the mouth, and hinted at the quality of things to come for the entire evening.
At the table, halibut in parchment was the first to arrive. When freed of its paper encasement, the steam rose off a flaky wonderful piece of halibut that held its flavor and temperature, peaking for this moment. Rob’s Abraxas was the right complement to this first course, with its ample fruit featuring apple, spice and the jasmine link from the Vin Gris before it.
Abraxas, vin de terroir, scintilla sonoma vineyard, 08
This is a food wine, and a fun wine, with the interesting bottle shape and surprising delivery on flavor that steps beyond the bounds of the ordinary. It stands apart, and that’s what makes it memorable versus so many other whites.
Vermont Quail was next, sitting on a bed of medjool dates beside stuffed grape leaves, offering unique and thoughtful flavors with notes of spice throughout. It was served with pinot noir from Rob’s Three Amigos Vineyard. He explained that great pinot noir is something you never truly figure out, as it always has another story to tell. It’s not all evident at first taste, ever-unraveling on the palette, in the mouth, and in the mind. “The recession has been good for the wine industry,” Rob offered, as “people want to know more about their wines before they buy them now, instead of merely relying on scores or ratings. Wine is a community experience, to drink and enjoy, and to discover.”
Everyone found truth in that opinion over the quail and pinot combination, collectively sharing the pleasure of the pairing. The wine displayed the complexity Rob suggested, leading with fruit at first, giving way to a more earthy quality, and somehow getting back to different fruitiness at the finish. A journey in the glass it was, with flavors on the plate to accentuate the spices, match the goodness, help reveal the complexities, and generally heighten the pleasure. This course was wine and food in a delightful, complementary dance.
Winemaker Robert Sinskey speaking with guests
The next to arrive was braised short rib, and this course put the culinary punctuation on the evening. The supple meat was so tender a fork was barely necessary, and its texture and flavor made music with Rob’s Marcien 2005. “Texture and intent matter,” Rob said. He could have been describing the ribs as well as his wine. “The cool climate in the Carneros might not make a Bordeaux varietal seem like the obvious choice to plant. But we have a mild fall with a very long tail. It’s Indian Summer, and that allows us to finish off the grape and make Marcien.” He added, “who would’ve thought we’d have Bordeaux varietals in Carneros?!?” There wasn’t a single doubter in the room, after experiencing the winemaker’s intent firsthand tonight.
Sinskey wines
Marcien offered notes of licorice, coffee and spices that stood up to the short ribs like a competent friend. It’s an assertive wine that makes a mark; it’s memorable for its edginess, balance, and distance from the pack. This wine is velvety and almost smoky, and comes from Merlot, Cab Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. Literally meaning “from Mars” in french, also signifying “are you crazy?” in colloquy, Rob says Marcien is the right name for this wine. “We may be crazy to plant Bordeaux grapes in Carneros,” Rob offered to the Boarding House dining room, “since it’s cooler (in Carneros) without the deeper gravelly soils associated with the famous Bordeaux terrior.” But true reward requires risk, and like going to Mars, if you don’t aim for the stars, you don’t get to fly over the moon. Marcien does.
Finally, it was rhubarb galette with creme fraiche to finish the performance. Paired with Rob’s Pinot Gris Late Harvest 2006, the dessert was worthy of an ovation. It was the dessert that you don’t have room for, but find that little corner of space, giving in to the irresistible temptation set before you. And, happily so. Another perfect pairing, to conclude a perfect evening of fine wining and dining as only virtuosos can offer. The chefs made drop-dead delicious galette, and the wine pairing was sweet but not overly so, offering balance and acidity that give dessert wines a good name. This is food-friendly wine, and reason to work through every last morsel of galette crust on the plate. Luckily so. What a finish.
Chefs Erin and Maria in the kitchen
Hail to the chefs! And hail to the winemaker and his wines, too.
Bravo!
Here’s the complete menu of food and wines, by course:
welcoming
scallop crudo with lovage + lime
jonah crab salad, avocado + red chili
chickpea panelle, sea salt + parsley
vin gris of pinot noir, los carneros, 09
1st course
Halibut in Parchment
island grown sorrel, new potatoes + lemon
abraxas, vin de terroir, scintilla sonoma vineyard, 08
2nd course
Vermont Quail
medjool dates, stuffed grape leaves + sweet spices
pinot noir, three amigos vineyard, los carneros, 07
3rd course
Braised Short Rib
ragout of spring vegetables
marcien, proprietary red, napa valley, 05
dessert selection
Rhubarb Galette
creme fraiche, vanilla syrup
pinot gris late, a late harvest pinot gris, los carneros, 06
Winemaker Rob Sinskey
Boarding House Chef-de-cuisine Erin Zircher
Guest Chef Maria Helm Sinskey
To find these wines, visit www.robertsinskey.com.
For information on The Boarding House, or two other Nantucket gems in The Pearl and Corazon del Mar, visit www.boardinghouse-pearl.com.
Winemaker Robert Sinskey, with Angela Raynor (owner, The Boarding House)
